good evening. BIG WAVES on the north shore. i was watching it for a while this morning and it didn’t look that good. well, it was good but nothing compared to what it’s been lately. so i decided to stay home and catch up on the millions of things i have to do before i start my traveling this year. got a lot done but still a lot more. and as soon as everything is done, i’m out of here…. well, after a few more barrels… anyway, it felt good today breathing in the trade winds. trade winds that we haven’t seen in a while. more swells on the way and i’m looking forward to it…

check out the weeks forecast. finally can get things done without missing epic weather and waves…
****HIGH INTERNET SURF WARNING. PAYPAL SCAM….. OH MY GOSH!!! I ALMOST GO RIPPED OFF!!! get this story. i put my old computer on the internet to sell. craigslist to be exact. within an hour, i got an email from this women by the name of mary pamala. we’ve been emailing each other back and forth about information on the computer i’m selling. she’s been really nice and seemed that she really wanted it. here is one of the email i got from her….
hello kirby, sorry for the late response am busy at the office I just made the payment via paypal now and i know that you would have been contacted with the notification as i got a mail from paypal, stating that the money has been deducted from my account so i want the item to be shipped out as soon as possible via the USPS GLOBAL EXPRESS MAIL DELIVERY (EMS) so it can get to my son address asap,and get the shipment proof to the paypal customercare for your account creditation.
Regard
Mary pamala

***then i got a confirmation email from paypal saying the money was approved and will be deposited in my account as soon as i send the buyer the shipping tracking number. ummm, i was a little suspicious. why?

first of all, this logo in the email from paypal caught my eye. looked like somebody copied and pasted it. it just didn’t look high quality. and paypal being a billion dollar company, i’m sure they have enough money and expertise to have a much clearer logo on their emails. second, this sale just sounded too easy. i was selling my computer for $900 and she offered me $1,000. too tell you the truth, i almost took the bait. i was ready to pack up my computer and send it out today. but something was telling me not to. so being the investigator i am, i called directly to paypal. it took me a while to get through but when i did, the customer service guy told me it’s a scam. he also said that hundreds of sellers are taking the bait and there’s nothing paypal can do about it. it’s just part of internet thief…. shit!!! i almost sent my dam computer out for free. so everybody please be aware. when in doubt, pull out…. that’s what i did… and i have a message to mary pamela. your a bitch!!! haha, mary pamela probably doesn’t even exist…. oh well, i was almost her bitch and hope nobody i know ever falls for the scam….
** i got this email from mary pamela just now. shit girl, leave me alone already…..
*Attn* : PayPal Customer,
You ought to have shipped the item by now.You can now forward us the Shipping Reference/Tracking Number, So that we can Credit your Account. We hope to hear from you soon. Thank you for using PayPal?? We look forward to Serving Your online Auction Payment better in the future.

sounds pretty convincing yeah? if i sent out my computer to pamela, i wouldn’t be able to sleep for weeks. or maybe months…. i’m glad i’m the kind of person who ask a lot of questions. now i’m going to sleep. good night.

god morning. 5:45am wednesday morning. gosh, i’m tired. yesterday was just too long of a day. i’m sunburned and my body’s sore. surf report: town came up. see a lot of white wash at ala moana park. i’m guessing it’s shoulder high? north shore is on the way up. buoys jumped up overnight so i’m guessing 10′ by the end of the day? maybe bigger. we got our trade winds back so no epic sheet glass mornings for a while. either way, i’m going surfing. just surfing. taking a little break from diving. well, until my fish is gone…. anyway, have a safe and nice day!!!

check out another photo kenji sahara took of me yesterday. check out the lip going over my head. how beautiful is that? i was dreaming barrels last night. and when i think about my session yesterday, i don’t think i fell off my board once. i made every barrel. that’s how perfect it was… and that’s why my board didn’t break too…. gosh, i’ll keep these photos forever. kenji was shooting from first light yesterday morning. he was the only photographer out at backdoor for 2 hours. unheard of. one month ago, there would be 15 water photographers on a day like this. great job kenji….

when i’m traveling, i drink beer almost everyday. well, everyday. but when i’m in hawaii, i drink about once a week. i had this red stripe beer in my fridge from when kimura-san was here. last night, it was saying “drink me”… i had such an awesome day yesterday so i thought what the heck. “kanpai”[:?????????:]
**check out my t-shirt. bobby higa made this t-shirt for the boys one christmas about 8 years ago. i still have it. bobby made it for one of my dirtbag friends. i can’t say it but his last name rhymes with ball. haha…. it’s now my pajama’s and i like it…. thanks bobby….
**and last, gas prices going way up. $4.63 on lanai already. how’s that? it’s going to be a chain reaction. expect everything to go up, especially airplane tickets. that sucks…. i better stay in town today and save gas…. i must have spent over $2,000 on gas this past 2 months going back and forth to the north shore. ouch….

good evening. gosh, i love my life. woke up this morning to epic conditions again. wanted to get barreled and wanted to catch fish. why not do both….

pulled up to backdoor this morning and once again, freaking going off!!! 3-5′ and epic!!!

i seen my friend from the east side randy myers out getting shacked. this is him riding his green wade tokoro on a flawless stand up backdoor barrel. yes, i was jealous. and yes, i ran to my car and got ready. paddled out and had such a fun session. it was uncrowded and every wave was barreling right and left. dream session…. so after 2 and a half hours of getting barreled, i went in, jumped in my car, and headed back to town with one thing on my mind. “dive”….

shawn met me at my house, we threw my dingy in the back of his truck, and we were off…. today was a perfect day to test out my new toy…. by the way, i’m thinking of a name for this dingy. any ideas? what about “pocket rocket?”… haha….

it was off to the east side. pulled up on the beach, backed the truck, and carried the boat into the water. the boat worked good, we speared so many fish, and we had a great time. it was like two adults playing like kids on the toy boat. i was laughing the whole time. and so were the guys watching from the beach. but when we got back with the fish bag full with fish, they weren’t laughing anymore…. too tired so photos coming tomorrow….
**then get this, i came home, turned on my computer, looked through some of the 40+ emails, and came across this one from kenji sahara….

this was from today. gosh, after i came home from diving, i forgot i even surfed today. i mean worked today. haha…. this is my office, an office i wouldn’t mind spending my life in. most of my friends hate their office but i love mine….

the sky was blue, the water was clean, and the waves were epic. i took off on a couple of waves today and watched as the lip was going over my head. that’s how beautiful it was. i was feeling high. natural high. guys calling this the best winter season ever. i agree!!! and 3 more swells on the way. tomorrow pipe should be 8′ and epic…. i’m out there…. oh, thanks so much kenji for letting me relive my morning. i really forgot about these barrels but now i remember. doomo arigato gozaimasu… lights out. good night….