good morning. 6:15am and gosh, there’s still waves on the north shore. looks 3-4′ and super clean. got a bunch of guys out at pipe already and it’s looking like another epic day of surfing. clear skies, light winds, what more could you ask for??? town has some waves too. there’s 5 stand up paddleboard surfers out at the park now. waves in the waist high range with clean conditions. diamond head must be going of f now…. anyway, once again, epic waves around the island. get out there and enjoy it…..

went out with the boys last night. on the first friday of every month, downtown lights up. the clubs and bars are happening and loaded with people. it’s been a while since i got out into the night life but i had a great time…. we went to this restaurant turned night club called “Epic”…. yeah, that’s my kind of place…..

inside was epic too. haha… it’s a restaurant until 10pm when it turns into a club. gogo dancers and everything….

it’s been a while since i had a few with jacksan….

and while we’re on the lost subject. look who was there last night. lost star daniel dae kim. he’s one of the actors in the drama “lost” series. i was telling him that i tried the mustard and it tasted pretty good… haha…. anyway, had a great time last night and wanted to say mahalo to the boys…. mahalo….

good evening. yet another epic day of surfing here in hawaii. pulled up to backdoor before 7am and i was surprised that there were still waves. it was 3-5′ and perfect…..

guys are calling this the best winter season ever. it’s just been perfect for too long. i’ve been surfing the north shore for 22 years and this is as good as it gets. anyway, i paddled out on my 6’6 and i felt like it was on a 5’10. there was just too much water moving out there. caught a wave, buckled my board, and came in. the one broken board a day rule was out. it was still 7:30 and i wasn’t finished. so i go back to my car and grab my magic 7’0. a board i’ve gotten the best barrels in my life on. had it for 5 years and never ever pull into close outs with it. caught a few good waves and was having a good session. then about 9am, i caught a wave and started paddling back out. and there it was, a solid 5′ set ready to break in front of me. should i hold on to my board and try to duck dive? wait, matchi did that last month and ended up in the hospital. so i decided to throw it on the side and dive under. SNAP!! shit…. i came up and my baby was broken. i felt like punching something…. ahhhhh….. luckily i go to anger management. haha. just joking… i was going to grab another board but i thought that if i broke 3 boards today, i would get fired. haha… sorry tssc. but i really need to order some new boards…. my winter season has just begun….

as i was walking to my car with my broken board, i saw kamio. he opened his trunk and gave me a six pack of beer. freakin stoked….. i drank all six of them warm on my way back to town…. [:?????????:][:?????????:] just joking….

last night, i ate a huge turkey drumstick. it was so good….. finger lickin good…..
**and wanted to thank all of you who sent me an email about the free stickers. gosh, i woke up this morning and had over 100 emails. i sent out to the first few people. so congratulations to kinji-san from osaka, daisuke-san from miyazaki, takeshi-san from aomori, and yukinori-san from hawaii. it’s already in the mail so you should be getting it soon. enjoy. and for the rest of you who sent me an email about the stickers, sorry. it would take me a week to send it out to everybody. i’ll give some more stickers away in the near future…. mahalo….
**now to leave you with a scary airplane ride. glad i wasn’t on that flight…..

good morning. 5am aloha friday. the buoy came down but the way things have been, the waves are probably going off. i’m going surfing.. see you in the water….
**watch this video posted on youtube. this is one of the top ones and already has over 2.6 million hits. and it’s only been on for less than 2 months. can somebody please tell me who this girl is? does she surf? and why so many people are watching it? i’m in the process of making a clip exactly like this of me and seeing how many people view it. haha.. what is this internet world coming too?????
**here’s another one. this one only has 1.5 million hits. yeah, this a pretty cute girl but what’s the big deal? i don’t get it. please tell me…..