good morning. 6:30am wednesday morning. the waves on the north shore didn’t get as big as expected. in fact, it looks a little smaller than yesterday. looking at pipe now and i seen some 4′ sets. 12 guys out with super clean conditions. heard this swell supposed to be 3-5′ and perfect all week long. perfect for backdoor, rocky point, and v-land. heard everywhere was epic this past week. town looks flat, well, maybe knee/waist high at bowls. got 3 hardcore surfers out there now. it’s going to be another epic day of surfing. see you in the water….
**wanted to know the best states in america for jobs? check it out….
#1. South Dakota
#6. Hawaii
Unemployment rate: 3.2 percent
Population: 1,283,388
Mean annual wage: $38,630
Top industry: Government (19.6 percent)
-hawaii came in 6th place but if you add in the cost of living, that $38,630 average yearly salary ain’t that much….
**by the way, the dollar/yen rate yesterday was 103 yen per one u.s dollar. all you japanese out there, run to the bank and buy dollars. nows your chance. i swear the last time i changed yen to dollars, the rate was 120. shit, i got ripped off. should have waited….

*i was watching the news today and seen this clip of this near airplane crash. it was nuts….

good evening. gosh, what another awesome day here in hawaii. the waves, weather, and everything is just awesome. all day long!! i’ve been waking up early in the morning for the past month and i still don’t mind. every single morning the waves have been perfect and it’s just getting better. yesterday was perfect but today was perfecter? is that even a word?

this is 7am at off the wall. sick waves with only one lucky guy out. that lucky guy was ryu nakamura. i watched him catch 3 waves all by himself with nobody around. grabbed my board and went to say hi on the way out to backdoor. paddled by ryu and he looked so dam happy. i didn’t want to bum his trip so i went to backdoor to grab a few. gosh, it was absolutely perfect. crystal clean long barrels…. then i went back to off the wall because i could see the photographers coming out. i guess sometimes i gotta work. it was only ryu and i. photographers kinsan and kenji sahara shooting from the water. then shuji kasuya and tetsu urayama paddled out. not even 30 min into the session, i caught my second wave. it was a shitty one and after it closed out, i jumped off my board and started paddling back out. i could see big sets coming in from the outside but i thought i could make it back out. see, if you don’t know, off the wall has no channel. catching a wave is the easy part, paddling back out is the hard part. you have to time it right our your in serious trouble. i started paddling back out as the sets came nearer and nearer. made it over 2, then there it was, a solid 7′ double up ready to break in front of me. i threw my board and dove under. i felt the board pulling my leash and then i felt the board not pulling my leash. i knew my board broke because destination makes the best leashes which never break. so there i was on the outside with a piece of my tail left. got pounded a few more times then finally made it back to the beach. i was on the way to my car to grab another board but thought, enough for today. i got barreled and there will be many more days to come. i was back in my car heading to town by 10am. a little bummed out, but happy bummed out. understand??

i break so many boards every year. at the pace i’m surfing recently, one broken board a day is enough. if i paddled back out, it could have been another one easily. as i was watching from the beach, i seen 5 guys coming in with broken boards. and watching dino miranda break 3 longboards 2 days ago, i’d thought today was already an expensive day for my surfboard sponsor. sorry yasan. but gosh, the waves were going off today. backdoor was at it’s best and the boys were getting deep long barrels. can’t wait to go out there again….

and on the way back passing waimea bay, i stopped to take this photo. i saw 5 whales in all different spots jumping around. where else in the world can you see all the things i seen this morning? i love this place….

and last, kelia borrowed uncle robbie’s camera one day and took some photos at her house. i kind of freaked out when i saw this photo of seth in her iphoto library because it looks pretty dam professional. gosh, i don’t think i could give such a cute smile like that to my older sister… haha…[:??????:]

good morning. 5:45am and i can smell it. yeah, i can smell the waves going off. still pitch dark but i’m out of here. if it’s anything like yesterday, it’s all good. oh, was watching the quiksilver pro yesterday online and oh my gosh. the surfing level is so high. it’s like if you can’t do an air in your heat, you won’t make it. kelly slater is on another planet. he just keeps getting better and better. unstoppable….. anyway, have a nice day…

we had a barbecue at carter’s house the other night. i went there, grabbed a chair, and the boys cooked all the food. it was nice to get served and i didn’t realize that the food tastes better that way. thanks guys. and sorry i didn’t help but i know you understand…

this was like our 3 year bali trip reunion. gerald, carter, kenji, russ, and i took a trip to bali 3 years ago and had a great time. we were talking about doing it again….

this is a photo from that bali trip. complete with a cold bintang…. gosh, that was a fun trip. can’t wait to do it again…

old time bodyboard friend erin stopped by. i knew erin back in the days when we use to surf sandy beach. 20 years ago this winter, i seen her out at big sunset beach. i thought she was pretty hardcore because i only seen her bodyboard sandy beach before. anyway, a freak 10′ set came in and broke right in front of us. after i came up, i looked for her and didn’t see her. then right as the next set was approaching, i saw her pop up and she was freaking out. her leash broke and she panicked. i threw her my board and told her not to let it go. she hung on for her life and made it safely to the beach. since that day 20 years ago, i bumped into erin 3 times. and every time i see her, she gives me a big hug and tells me “thanks for saving my life”. i think that’s pretty funny. but i guess she was serious because she hasn’t gone near sunset beach since then….