good evening. i came back from my 2 boat trips totally surfed and burnt out. i wanted to relax in hawaii and get some work done but the waves are interfering. yeah, the waves have been too dam good to anything else but surf. i’ve been surfing more than i surfed on my boat trips. today was probably the best day i ever surfed big rights. i paddled out this morning around 7:30am and hardly anybody was out. it was 3-5′ and barreling. i got so many barrels that i was satisfied enough. then i was planning to go for another evening session but decided to just go at 2pm and fight the peak crowd. i got out there and nobody was out. none of the boys so i was pretty much catching any wave i wanted. all 5′ sets and all barrels. i haven’t surfed big right’s that good for over 6 years. i thought i was dreaming… anyway, i surfed for 6 hours today and i am fried like a burnt piece of meat. and as i was paddling in, i was thinking to myself, “i’m either a lucky guy, or i’m freaking dreaming”…. it seems like the waves are following me around the world. but you know what? i like it that way. tomorrow will be a break day for me and from monday, i’m surfing 6 hours a day, everyday…. i gotta go get all the water out of my brain. i feel like a fish…. have a great evening…
i broke my magic board yesterday so i called up mike and asked him to lend me his new demo. it’s called a CYBER KRYPTON produced by TSSC SURFBOARDS in japan. i surfed it this afternoon and it worked super good. good paddling, easy to turn, and good for barrel riding. i’m going to order one tomorrow…..
i really don’t know what the concept is because i didn’t have enough time to ask mike. but for me, board concepts and looks don’t matter. as long as it works, i’ll ride it. and that’s what i’m going to do….
and last, i threw away my board in the rubbish can at ala moana park. a couple of my friends told me that they seen my board there. but when i went there today, it was gone. i guess somebody took it home….
