good morning. wow, what great days of surfing we’ve been having. i haven’t seen so many broken boards on the south shore my whole life. in fact, this was only the 2nd board i broke on the south shore. the last swell was strong and the whole ocean was moving. even the boats in the protected harbors were rocking. a lot of surfers are calling this summer the best ever. and it’s not even over yet. everybody is surfed out, so am i. got things i have to do so i’m going to do it before the next south swell hits on tuesday. if waves were food, i’d be full already. we say in japanese “onaka ga ippai”… oh… and a couple of guys asked me why i wasn’t shooting photos. i told them “when the waves are big and barreling, i don’t shoot. i surf. and stop trying to get me out of the lineup.” but good try. haha..
anyway, it’s 6:30am and the waves dropped a little. it’s still 4′ solid and super clean and sunny right now. already a lot of surfers in the water. another perfect day here!!! have a good one!!!
kyle, chris, and travis went blue water diving the other week and caught 4 ono’s. gosh, that’s a lot of sashimi… good job guys…
i took this video clip last time i went trolling with my friend ryan’s boat. is this a shark? or a dolphin? what do you think???
and last. someday i will own a big boat. big enough to take my friends sailing around the world to enjoy life. so every time i see and ride one, i feel like i’m getting one step closer to my dream. 20 years ago you would think i’m crazy to have such a big dream like that. but as life rolls on, i feel it coming…. i already know that dreams come true, but this is a pretty dam big dream and i can’t wait to see what happens….
