good evening. small surf around the island today. small but super fun for me. went surfing with friends at bowls. had a great time and that’s all the counts. been hearing of a solid north/west swell on thursday. that might be my first session on the north shore this season. i’m getting excited…

if the wind are light, the first place you should check is diamond head. why? because it catches any kind of swell and if there’s no wind, it’s the longest right on the island. so i pull up there at 8:30am. the winds were kind of blowing so we headed to bowls, and bowls was the spot…

after a good surf session, a good lunch is a must. we headed to the steak place across the street from palama market. not too many people know about this place and i kind of want to keep it that way….

$10 for a 10oz ribeye steak topped with garlic? can’t go wrong. it was so good. just smell my breath.. haha.. thanks toda-san for the awesome lunch….

took my daily drive through waikiki. the waves were kind of small but still perfect for longboarding. seen a lot of japanese tourists enjoying the beach so that was good to see. is it because the gas is getting cheaper?

and last, wanted to thank toda-san and takami-san for the awesome present. this is my favorite and if you buy me this, i’ll be your best friend. haha.. just joking. by no means, i’m not an alcoholic, nor do i have an alcohol problem. i drink alcohol about once a week, or sometimes less. but when i do, jacksan and coke is my favorite. this huge bottle will last me for a long long time….

hey, check out oceanic channel 16 tonight at 8PM. the new hawaii skin diver show is featuring our okinawa trip. should be cool. anything about free diving is cool. and anything about okinawa is cool. so it should be cool…
**and get this, if your not in hawaii or miss it on tv. you can watch it live on the web. just click the link below at 8pm hawaii time. or 3pm japan time. enjoy…
CLICK HERE FOR HAWAII SKIN DIVER TV ON OCEANIC 16…..

good happy election day. hope you all get out there and vote for our new president today. i’m pretty excited to have somebody new leading out country. hopefully barack obama can turn things around. wait, he didn’t win yet. haha… but he’s favored and my favorite. president barack grew up in hawaii so he must have some aloha spirit. the president of the united states of america with aloha? that would be awesome… plus, he bodysurfs!!! yeah!!! so mr. president, here is the surf report for today. town is knee high. there are 6 guys out at rockpiles, 2 guys out at bowls. north shore is small. waist high with 2 guys out at laniakea. mr. president, your best bet today is sandy beach. it’s going to be crowded so keep your secret service team at home. see you out there….

the legendary gerry lopez. what more can i say. gerry made pipeline pipeline. gerry made tube riding tube riding. and gerry made surfing surfing. yeah, all you young kids don’t know what i’m talking about but kelly slater didn’t pave the path. gerry lopez did and kelly would probably agree. when i was growing up, everybody wanted to be like gerry. and that was years and years ago. today, gerry lopez is still surfing, exploring, and living the dream life that surfing has provided him with. gerry’s philosophy is behind this hawaiian based company called “SRF” or Surf Realization Fellowship. the mission statement signed by gerry lopez himself:
The Surf Realization Fellowship is dedicated towards expanding horizons and getting in touch with a more complete world…
For SRF, surfing the snow on a snowboard, riding frozen waves created by the same storms that make the surf, is a natural expansion of the surfing lifestyle. The mountains are a world of wonder similar to the sea, another place for feeling free. Even though the sea is Yin and the mountains Yang, a person can seek and find a balance of harmony while enjoying both worlds.
It’s also about understanding those special moments that occur while surfing or snowboarding… Those brief but startling moments that sneak up seemingly out of nowhere, like when paddling back out after a good ride and seeing a beautiful wave that everyone else missed peel off empty and perfect. On the Yang side, it’s that first sight on a blue bird morning after a big snowfall the day before, seeing the mountain blanketed with fresh, new snow sparkling like diamonds in the light of alpine-glow.
That these moments happen seemingly by chance out in the surf or deep in the snow is no reason why they can??t be saved and brought back into service when needed to overcome some obstacle in life, to solve a problem, or merely to be resurrected and savored once again. This is what SRF is about and where we are going with it. We will continue to apply the lessons learned and wonders discovered in our surf and snowboard adventures towards improving the quality of life within us and for the people around us.
**CLICK HERE FOR THE SRF “SURF REALIZATION FELLOWSHIP” WEBSITE….


and now, you can read all you want in a 800 page book about gerry lopez called “Surf Realization”. and for you lucky japanese people, it’s perfectly translated into japanese by tomoko okazaki….
**[:???:]CLICK HERE TO ORDER GERRY’S SURF REALIZATION BOOK….