good evening. we got a solid south swell today. i waited for the right timing to surf big rights and the right time it was. i paddled out at 1pm and hardly anybody was out. i got a few barrels and it felt good to be back home in hawaii surfing good waves. then as i went in, i seen cedric, ronnie, jun jo, and kyle paddling out. i would have loved to surf with them too but at the same time, i wouldn’t have caught as many waves as i did. hopefully i can time it right again tomorrow because i heard it’s going to get bigger. then another bigger south swell this weekend. gosh, i should win the “lucky surfer of the year” award. is there anybody else in the world that has gotten as much surf and fish as me this year? haha…
**by the way, what sad news of michael jackson passing away today. they were playing his songs all day today on the radio and it’s amazing how many years of good music he brought to the world. rock with you, beat it, you are not alone, ben, and many many more. i’m sure he will be missed my millions and his music will live on for generations to come….
makoto-san just came out with a book called “HAWAII BOOK”. i haven’t had the chance to look at it yet but i hear from everybody that it’s an awesome book. i met makoto-san a couple of years ago when filming “Surfing Lani”. he’s really a nice guy and really professional in his work. so wanted to say congratulations to makoto-san for your new book!!! i’m going to order one right now. saiko!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR MAKOTO-SAN’S BLOG….
**AND IF YOU WANT TO PICK UP A BOOK RIGHT HERE, CHECK IT OUT…
