good evening. dawn patrolled backdoor again this morning. pulled up and the waves were still solid 4′ and pretty good….

jumped in for a surf with my brand new 6’6 minami. i knew it was a little short for out there but i wanted to try it out. caught a few waves and the board was working good. little short, but good. then as i was about to go in, a solid a-frame set came to me so i paddled my ass off to catch it. i got stuck at the top of the wave and i was already committed. so there’s 2 things you can do. one is to just go over the falls with your board and hope your fin doesn’t cut you or your nose doesn’t go up your ass. the other is to throw the board to the side and jump off. a little safer but still dangerous. kind of like bungie jumping. so that’s what i chose to do. i jumped from the top feet first, looked down at the shallow reef, and just closed my eyes. i penetrated the water and didn’t hit the reef, yeah, then comes the second part. the part where the wave picks you up and throws you back down with the lip. that’s when i put my arms around my head to protect it from the reef. at this point, you really don’t know where your going to hit on the reef. i ended up hitting my ass. my right cheek to be exact. it wasn’t too bad but i’m sure it will be bruised tomorrow morning. i’m happy with that because it could have been a lot worst….

so after, it was off to work. went on a photo shoot with kenji. those two girls are part of the go-naminori team…. chiaki and yumie….

a beautiful day with two beautiful girls. i wanted to say 3 but kenji ain’t that beautiful… haha…. just joking….

then i came home and my brother and shane just got home from diving. this was the daily fresh catch… gosh, if i went diving with them this morning, my ass would be fine. i only can sit on the left side now…

fresh fish and tako. can’t beat that. wait a little because the killer tako recipe is coming up on go-naminori soon….

and last, this is what you call “too much diving”. this is a blister on my foot from my fins. it doesn’t hurt when i go diving or swimming. but it hurts like hell at night. i was walking around my house last night wondering what all the red spots were. shit, it was blood from my blister. itai. gosh, my body is getting beat up. i’d better slow down…. not…..

good morning. 5:30am. waves on the north shore in the 3 maybe 4′ range. looks a little bumpy now but it should get better as the morning goes along. town even has some small waves. looks waist high with clean conditions. expecting a high surf advisory for the south shores tonight and big north/west swells all next week. keep on surfing because it’s going to be another great week. i’m going to go look for some more barrels again today. see you in the water….

i’m holding 2 fish. the top one is called a “mu” and the bottom one is called a “munu”. “mu”, or also known as the bigeye emperor is probably the hardest fish to spear. these guys swim at a far distance so you really can’t go and spear them. the trick is to lure them in. how? when you see them, go down 50 or 60′ deep and lay on the bottom motionless. then stir some sand around with your hands and just wait, wait, and wait. these guys come closer in very slowly so you have to have good bottom time if you want to spear one. so if you want a mu, practice diving and holding your breath. but if your like me, just ask your dive buddy. haha… thanks shawn…. i steamed that big mu, and oh my gosh…. so good……

check out this secret beach. you would have to be my really good friend or i am going to have to like you a lot to take you there. and everytime i take somebody there, i always tell them that they better not go there without me. if they do, i’ll flat all 4 tires on their car. and i’m serious…. well, just a little serious. maybe only 3 tires….

by the way, go-naminori has a new official blog. wanted to welcome kairi noro. kairi is 8 years old and has a dream on becoming a professional surfer in japan. so check out this cute kid’s start to stardom…. CLICK HERE FOR KAIRI’S BLOG…..

good evening. what’s up everyone, BIG NEWS IN HAWAII….. BUOY 1 IS UP AND WORKING!!! i heard it was going to be down until late this year but i’ve been checking it every so often. actually, everyday. well today it was on. good news for surfers in hawaii. now we can get back to the best way of predicting wave size and time of arrival. i’ll explain how that works later. but for you surfers that check the buoys everyday more times than you check on your girlfriend, here it is. CLICK HERE FOR BUOY 1….
what another great day of surfing here in hawaii. the waves have been going off!! not too crowded and just perfect….

i’ve been leaving my house pretty early this past 2 weeks. it was cool looking at the full moon and one twinkle twinkle little star…. this was about 6am. i pulled up to backdoor expecting it to be 3-5′ and easy. instead, it was 4-6′ with bigger sets and crazy… super thick a-frame sets all day at backdoor/pipe and off the wall. i surfed backdoor all morning. got a couple barrels and gosh, it felt so dam good. then i came in to grab my camera for a couple of shots. i swam out the danger zone. between off the wall and backdoor is the most dangerous way to paddle out. if you time it right, your ok. if not, your not ok. today i swam through there because i was too lazy to go around. big mistake. right as i got out, a freak 8′ set sucked up and broke right on me. i got pounded to the reef. then i got pounded again and again. i felt like a rag doll. i was beat….

this is what the waves looked like. it was 6′ backdoor, 8′ off the wall, with perfect conditions…

after surviving my backdoor session, i drove by waimea bay. everytime i pass by there on a nice day, i always say to myself “gosh, what a beautiful island i live on”….

i drove by haliewa on the way back to town. haleiwa was overhead and perfect. but i was surfed out so i just watched it for a while….

then it was an afternoon session up at the pool. did some laps underwater and some relaxation exercises. while i was relaxing underwater, i was thinking to myself “i think i’m in the water too much”. think so?
**anyway, epic surf forecasted for tomorrow. same thing. early morning session…. have a great night sleep because i sure will….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]