good morning. should have some waves today. and should be clean before the onshore winds mess things up around 10am. so get it early….. have a nice day and see you in the water…..

check out this photo. on monday, feb. 11th, korea’s number 1 national treasure was burned to the ground. the namdaemum was a gate in the original walls surrounding seoul back in the joseon dynasty. it was constructed in 1395. yes, i said 1395. what a tragic lost. it’s like the eiffel tower in paris burning down, or like the colluseum in italy burning down. that’s pretty heavy…. by the way, a 69 year old man set it on fire. why? don’t ask me….
***the pipeline bodyboarding contest is starting today. if they get anything like how they got last year, they will score. the waves were perfect 10′ and the spongers were going off. jeff hubbard was the man. check out this video….

good evening. woke up early again and headed to the north shore. pulled up and i just paddled out. seen like 40 guys out so i thought it was going off. got to the lineup and i was the only surfer out there. there were freaking 40 bodyboarders…. and the waves weren’t that good, the current was strong so it seemed just like a practice session for the bodyboard contests coming up tomorrow. i was over it. caught one wave, and ended up paddling in after only 30min or so…..

i snapped this photo with my cel phone. gosh, the waves look pretty good yeah? trust me, it wasn’t as good as it looks. if it was, i wouldn’t be sitting on the beach. heard the contest will be going off in the next 3 days so i’m glad it will be over soon. so i got 3 days to go diving and then i’m surfing out there every single good day it breaks until april…..

i had a better time sitting on the beach with kenji, chiaki, and kinsan talking story….

and yes, buoy 1 that measures the size and intervals of all our winter swells is still broken. heard today that it will be out until december 2008. i’m glad because nothing’s better than getting to the north shore at dawn not knowing what to expect. it’s been like that all winter and i scored some good sessions with nobody around….

and last, check out this cool photo from the surfers path website. it’s cool to look at but not too cool if your that surfer bungie jumping….
**and last last, i haven’t took an afternoon nap in a long long time. this is how i looked today….

good morning. 6am here on this calm presidents day. it’s a holiday here in hawaii so no traffic. yeah!! the north shore looks like it came up and is pretty clean. still dark but i’m leaving already. hope to get barreled… have a nice day….

wanted to thank hayato for sending this photo of me and my fish i caught 2 days ago. as we were driving the boat to the east side, i was telling shawn that i wanted to spear an “ulua”. it’s been a long time so i just wanted to see something big and actually spear it. so we pull up on our first dive to check this ulua house. went down, nobody home. empty… so we started diving around there and i was kind of getting frustrated because i missed a few fish point blank. as i was going back to my boat, i’d thought i’d check the house again to see if some ulua were in there. most likely not but as i was swimming over the hole, i seen 4 big tails swimming inside. then one came out and looked at me and ran away. sorry, swam away. i thought the others would follow it but they stayed in the hole. right then, my heart started beating fast and tried to keep calm so i can stay down there long, long enough for one of them to turn around and come to me. the house goes pretty deep so as soon as i seen them make the turn away from my side, i went down. i stuck my head in the hole and just waited there because i knew they were going to come back around sometime. i was waiting and waiting, my heart was pumping and pumping, then here 3 of them come. the biggest one swimming straight to me. i stuck my gun out slowly, took aim right behind the eye so i could get the kill shot, and when he was 3′ away, i took the shot. right through back of the eye and out by the tail. a perfect shot. he still fought as i tried to pull him up. so i grabbed my knife, stuck it in his brain, and it was over. a 14lbs ulua in the cooler. sashimi for everyone….. although i got a good shot, this fish still bent my shaft. it costs $67 for a new shaft so i’m going to get my $67 worth of sashimi out of it. can’t wait to see another one again…. that’s the joy of diving. you just never know when your going to get the prized fish. sometimes it takes years and years but when you finally get one, it’s worth the wait. i just don’t like to wait… haha…..