when is the last time you seen backdoor like this? yeah, it’s been that long. this was last winter… shane dorian in the office. 7 photographers all trying to get that perfect shot. not only surfers now days have to get good positioning in the barrel, the photographers have to position themselves too to get that unique one of a kind shot. it’s pretty cool being on both sides. pulling into the barrel and getting your photo taken by lots of photographers and seeing it in a magazine is pretty awesome. and at the same time, swimming in the water while a surfer is coming straight at you trying to get as close as you can get, taking a shot, going home and download it into your computer, and then see it published in some major surfing magazine. that’s pretty awesome too. but if i had to choose one, i’d be the surfer in the barrel for sure…. gosh, i can’t wait for another day like this. when it comes, i’m surfing ALL day…..
**by the way, a lot of people tell me that i’m really lucky because i eat good food all the time. just wanted to say yes, i think i’m lucky too. so thanks to everybody that makes that happen because i’m not eating it by myself….

i was watching MTV a while back and came across this reality tv program. it’s about a girl who is bisexual and is looking for love. they started off with like 20 straight guys and 20 lesbians. to tell you the truth, i got hooked on watching it. why? because it was crazy. and i mean crazy…

this is tila tequila. she’s from vietnam and lives in singapore. she can’t make up her mind if she wants to be with a man, or a woman for the rest of her life. she’s a model that made her career off her blog on myspace. now, she’s one of the most famous bisexual women in the world. thanks to MTV and people like me who watch the program…..

she’s been featured in maxim magazine and is a lot of men and women’s dream girl….

who won her love? it came down to a man and a women in the end. i could have told you that was going to happen. it’s tv right? but she ended picking the man. now after being the higest rated series on MTV since 2002, they are planning to make another reality show on her….

6 million people watched the last show when she had to choose her man, or lady. including me. that’s more than the sugar bowl…. now the question is “is she hot?” depends who you ask? want to know what i think? yeah, i know you do. i don’t think she’s that hot. there are many more beautiful women in this world. BUT!!!! is she smart? ABSOLUTELY YES!!! this girl marketed and promoted herself to become one dam popular bisexual….. and she is counting the money day by day…. good job tila tequila…. can i have a shot? haha… just joking….

good morning. another dark, cloudy, rainy, windy, and small wave day. north shore looks super junky. 1′ and only one bodyboarder out at pipe. town is looking much better with chest high sets at certain spots. the swell is out of the east so you have to know where to look. i bet a spot at diamond head is the best on the island right now. do you know where i’m talking about? see you in the water. have a nice day…

went to dinner with the kimura family and hayato. check out this combo. red wine, jamaican red stripe lager, england new castle brown ale, and champa thai. how the heck can you beat that???

they say that the view at tantalus is the best in hawaii. i disagree. the view at tantalus is the best in the world. and also the most romantic place in the world. just don’t let me catch you up there because i will go and knock on your window. haha….

and last, pig face and raw liver and eggs in a chicken? no, this is not okinawa. this is china town…..
*monster pipe pro on now. the waves suck but they have to run it today and tomorrow. bummer because thursday going to be good. new solid 10′ north/west swell. can’t wait. and can’t wait until saturday. why? look at this….

[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:] sun coming back on saturday!!!! i haven’t seen the sun mark for a while. i’m going to get out my g-string and tan my white ass all day saturday. can’t wait…