good evening. gosh, what a long day. it’s 9:15pm and i just got home from the north shore. the waves? shit!!! going off big huge monster pipeline. i pulled up at 6:45am at pipe expecting it to be 4-5′. seen a couple 6′ sets so i was glad i took my 7’0 with me this morning. paddled out and the waves got bigger and bigger…..

check out this photo i took with my cel. phone camera. perfect pipe/backdoor. sick…. as i paddled out, i was just thinking about getting one good one…. then the waves started coming up pretty fast. by 8am, it was 8′. by 10am, it was 10′, and by 3pm, it was 12’+. after i came in, i was watching for a few hours. all i have to say is that wakita is representing japan really good. every season, he’s getting more and more confident, more and more waves, and more and more respect from the locals. it’s pretty impressive…. oh, not to mention, akira shindo got the backdoor wave of the morning. super sick perfect barrel. somebody got the shot and you’ll see it in some mag for sure….

we passed by sunset on the way to the dove house and it was going off there too. they were holding the junior pro contest and the kids were ripping…. gosh, what a great day of big surf in the north shore. all day offshore winds and perfect conditions…. had a great dinner at cholo’s mexican restaurant with photographers nakajima-san, char, kenji, and web designer naoka…. i feel and smell like a freakin burrito… tomorrow will be another long day so better get some sleep. good night….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]

goo morning. 5:15am aloha friday. the waves should be good all over the island today. south swell, east swell, north swell, and west swell. light winds and clear skies. everybody go surf!!! see ya…
**did you know that hawaiian monk seals are on the endangered species list? there are only 1,200 in the world and only about a hundred in the hawaiian islands. i didn’t realize how few are left. so the other day when i seen a pair swimming by, i guess i was lucky. i wonder where the other 98 were? i’ve swam with them before but if you wondered how they swim under water, check this out. it’s almost the same like swimming with dolphins… freaking cool…..
and if you want to see a hawaiian monk seal in person, head over to kailua beach because there’s one on the beach right now. it’s been there for the past 2 weeks… check him out cruzing. and if you go there to see the monk seal, please don’t bother it. and please don’t take your dog. let him just hang out because one day, you might not be able to see these guys anymore…. enjoy…

good evening. gosh, if you weren’t at bowls this morning. you blew it. the waves were pretty much going off!! solid 3′ peeling barreling lefts. nobody knew there was a south swell because not too many surfers were out. and the parking lot was empty. check out that unridden peeling left breaking in the background of this photo. and that wasn’t even a set. got in a 2 hour super fun session with naoka. then we passed by diamond head to get a look at the waves….

diamond head looked super fun too. light house only had 5 guys out and it was pretty good. summer surf in the winter season. i’m not complaining. the waves were still coming up in the evening so expect epic town tomorrow….
**and what the heck is this world coming too? 24 hours of tragedy in hawaii. NOWHERE in this world is safe anymore. yesterday, this crazy x-boyfriend chased his girlfriend down with his car on the east side. he smashed his car with his car and when she got out to run, he took out his shotgun and beat her to death with it. somebody tried to help but he got beaten by the gun too. the girl ended up dying on the street in the daytime while helpless people only could watch. they caught the guy but the damage was already done….. and today around noon, this 23 year old guy threw this 2 year old baby off the overpass onto the freeway. the baby died. and what makes it worst is that the baby wasn’t his and nobody knows who’s baby it is yet. gosh, very sad news coming out of hawaii. makes me feel sick. my heart goes out to the families affected by this. i’m lost for words…..