good morning. 6am on this first day of december. gosh, 25 more days till christmas. so fast…. the waves suck today. west winds blowing already in town making junky conditions. the north shore came up. 8-10′ at pipeline with semi-clean conditions. but it should blow out by 10am. tonight’s the big UH football game. can’t wait to lose my voice again. like i said last week, if we win, everybody will be happy. but if we lose, go straight home after the game because there will be a lot of pissed off people roaming the streets. last week was our biggest game in history. tonight’s game is even bigger. GO WARRIORS….. have a nice day….

all 11 of us went to bubbies ice cream last night. gosh, i love that place. and right on the front door has this sticker. yes, i love hawaii too….

nao is leaving today. she came here 10 days ago and surfed kaisers, kewalos, diamond head, v-land, haleiwa, ehukai, laniakea, pipeline, backdoor, and even waimea bay. did some tow surfing and paddle board surfing. and even played with a wild boar. she said she had fun but the best thing she told me on this trip was hearing my funny jokes everyday. haha. just joking… this girl got talent and is going to have a golden career. have a safe flight home nao and see you next year!!!

this is page 114-115 of surfing world cloud 9 article. the left side is kazuya sato. this is a secret left that won’t be secret for long. and on the right is mikala jones doing a sick grab rail cutback after getting shacked…..

good evening. surfed my ass off again. pulled up to pipe/backdoor this morning and no too many guys were out. seen wade tokoro out there ripping as usual. it was kind of small but still super clean and fun. it was nao’s first time out there and she caught more waves than me again. after an hour, we paddled over to ehukai and it was packed. caught one wave and was over it. the south/west winds came and it was over….

it was back into town to one of my favorite chinese plate lunch restaurant. it’s called “Duck Lee” and is in the corner of market city. right next to fun factory. the roast pork there is the best on the island…

just ask nao….

for some reason, there were a lot of police out there today with speed guns. seen a couple on the way out to the north shore this morning. and this afternoon, these guys were down my street. i seen them so i took a photo of them. one of the cops seen me take the photo and he looked super pissed. looked like he was going to get in his car and come after me but changed his mind. can i get a ticket for that? don’t think so…. but please drive safe and slow or else you will get caught…. remember that 30 miles over the speed limit gets you a free night in jail….

went to surf diamond head this evening. it looked like crap from the top but when we got in the water, it was super fun. caught a lot of waves and seen a lot of airplanes flying into the airport. with these south/west winds, all the airplanes fly in this way instead of from the west side. i must have seen 50 or so go by. made me want to get on one and go somewhere. i think i need a vacation again…. haha…

and last. want the best dam shave ice in hawaii? go to waiola shave ice in town. order the rainbow shave ice with ice cream and azuki beans. for 3 bucks, it will make your day…..

good morning. 6:15am. town is small and onshore. south winds blowing and north shore is the spot to be. EPIC conditions. i’m out of hea… have a nice day…

i’ve been seeing this a lot. the beautiful drive to the north shore. making 2 runs out there today. surf surf surf…. let’s go!!