oh my gosh!!!! that’s all i have to say about this morning. well, maybe a little more to say. i pulled up to ??? river mouth and seen somebody get a perfect 4′ barrel. i was super stoked and grabbed my board. as i was paddling out, the waves were getting bigger and bigger by the set. 5′, then 6′, then 7′, then consistent 8′ sets. there were 2 freak or “obake sets” that came in and i was in the wrong spot for the first one. i tried to paddle my hardest but the wave broke right in front of me. it was way too big to duck dive so i bailed my board and dove under. got held down for a while and had to find my way up by pulling my leash. it was a good wake up call. the waves were smoking…. got some barrels and seen this local guy get the best biggest nuttest barrel i’ve ever seen out there. it looked like 6′ inside sunset bowl. it was sick….. the best waves today were the double ups on the inside but you couldn’t wait there because the freak sets were too big. toward the end of my session, i went to the inside and waited for one. then i heard everybody on the beach whistling and i knew i was in trouble. the first one was pretty big, i barely made it. then the next one was even bigger. barely made that one too. shit, the waves were big today. i’d say the 2 freak sets were 10′ hawaiian scale. i had a 6’8 which wasn’t long enough. it’s 10:45am now and i’m grabbing my 7’6 and heading back. catch you later…..

good morning. 5am here in shikoku. got here late lastnight. i can hear the waves breaking out front. it’s pitch dark but i’m out of here. have a great surfing day….
the new aloha street magazine just came out a few days ago. can you believe that they publish 125,000 copies? and their website has 5,000,000 hits a month? that’s huge…. i had a great opportunity to work with the professional staff in hawaii this summer. i had so much fun and wanted to thank the staff at aloha street for hooking me up. doomo arigato gozaimasu….

check out where my top 10 favorite places near my house is. but just don’t go there because i don’t want it to get crowded…. just joking….

CLICK HERE TO BE PART OF THE 5,000,000 HITS……

imagine walking to the beach for a contest and checking the waves at first light. must be nerve racking. i remember those days and i don’t miss it at all….

can you find out what’s wrong?

roll call at 6am. gosh, this contest is getting bigger and better. i’m stoked to be a part of it…..

here ishino-san is giving the rules. top 2 waves beach start. oh, 12 minute heats…..

barrels surfing school. the customers of barrels are so lucky to have a cool teacher like ishino-san….

the ladies division was awesome. the waves were powerful and kind of dangerous but these girls were ripping. check out the cool dove wetsuits…..

barrels = barbecue. barrels = fun…..

there was a smile on every single face at this barbecue. thanks for the great time and great food….

congratulations to saiki-san for winning the senior class division….

congratulations to takenaka-san for winning the open division. yusuke got second….

congratulations to kaito for winning the beginner class…

and congratulations to aki-chan for winning the women’s class. that’s 2 years in a row. and look at cutie 7 year old kona-chan. she got second. i got the cutest photos of her surfing. i’ll post them later…..
**once again, congratulations to all the competitors. you guys and girls did great!! and thank you to ishino-san for putting on such a happy fun event. can’t wait till next year…. next year will be a lobster and isidai for every person…. well, if the water is clean….