there is a little bakery in mugi. i always go there in the morning on the way to the factory to get some breakfast. there is all kinds of cool bread and sandwiches. this one has egg, a sausage, and a slice of cucumber. it costs a whopping .80 cents. oishi desu….

this is my new chris kaysen 4 fin i was telling you about the other day. all i have to say is “this board is sick”…..

and if you want to try it, sorry…. your going to have to get your own.
**by the way, TSSC SURFBOARDS just renewed their website. check it out by CLICKING HERE….. they even have a live camera of uchizuma beach. i’m going to go outside and turn it into my room so you can see my ugly ass every morning. haha….

and one last thing out of my maxim magazine. this girls name is mehgan meanet-grier. she is the worlds record women free diver. she can hold her breath for 4 minutes and 36 seconds. and go down 146 feet in one breath. gosh, i wish she was my free diving coach. does anybody have her number????

good morning. it’s 5am here in shikoku. there still seems to be some south swell coming into uchizuma. the tides too high now so it isn’t breaking but there are some swells rolling in. been having a great time here. mike woo’s here, and hayato came yesterday so we did what we love to do. dive….. check out these photos from yesterday….

mike and i had our spears from hawaii. hayato left his in chiba so we went the the home center and he bought this japanese spear for $4. it looked like a little toy and we were laughing. hayato actually speared a fish with this. whatever works….

when you have good diving partners, your going to catch something. we caught more than something. before we left, yasan was talking about a barbecue so the pressure was on. none of us wanted to come back empty handed, and none of us did. not bad for 2 hours of diving….

this is called “black awabi” in japanese. when we came back to the car, there were 3 of them that crawled into our cooler. we still don’t know how it got there???

we went to morimoto-san’s restaurant in kaifu and he prepared our catch. we took the cooler into the kitchen and he brought this out 15 minutes later. i freaked out when i saw this. it would take about 2 months rent to pay for something like this in tokyo. gosh, i swear this was the best dinner ever. imagine that this fish were alive just a few hours earlier. as fresh as it gets…

this is erina taniguchi. gosh, i’ve know her since she was 14 years old or so. erina is one of the nicest girls you will ever meet. everybody gets along and likes erina. she is also number 1 in the jpsa womens pro rankings now. if you seen her surf, you will know why. she was out the other day surfing with us and i seen her get some nice barrels. anyway, this could be erina’s year. ganbatte ne…

this is the morimoto-san crew. these people are so nice, the food is awesome, and i always have a great time there. thanks for all the years of the great food….

wow, i just figured out how to take clips off some old videos i have. from now on, your going to see things from the past 15 years in japan. everywhere i use to go, i took my video camera with me. got some classic footage. stay tuned….

1992 was the first time i came to shikoku. tokura-san brought me here and that’s when i met barrels owner, ishino-san. we pulled up to this river mouth and nobody was out. the waves were freaking going off. i grabbed my board and was surfing out there by myself for an hour. ishino-san grabbed my video camera and took some footage. 1 guy surfing a perfect barreling river mouth by himself is unheard of. that was the first and probably the last time i will experience something like that…..

after coming out of the barrel, you have so much speed that you can do what ever the heck you want. i was riding for local motion back then and i was riding a 6’4 wade tokoro. i remember that because i broke it right after this wave. i almost cried..

this was 2 days ago. i guess i can say i’ve been surfing here for the past 15 years. i’m not a local, i’m just a lucky ass guy with friends that know what’s up. thanks to all who have made my dream come true….[:????????$B!r(B:]