good evening. wow!!! how were the waves today? epic!!! i drove all around this morning checking everywhere. everywhere was going off so it was hard to choose a spot…

diamond head was as good as it gets. 4′ with perfect conditions at cliffs, right hands, and light house…. sheet glass conditions…

so i’m sitting on the top of diamond head looking everywhere. seen a peak off in the distance peeling perfect like a right point. drove down there, ran down the hill, and surfed that place pretty dam good. solid 4′ with sheet glass conditions. the water was crystal clear, the skies were blue, and everybody looked stoked. i’m glad i didn’t surf the past 3 days because i felt super hungry for waves today. it felt unreal riding good waves….
**nobody predicted this swell today so i’m going ahead and posting a HIGH SURF ADVISORY for the south shores of all islands. haha.. how’s me, i make like i’m guy hagi.. haha… it’s been a long time since i seen the waves come up right in front of my eyes…. tomorrow same thing, go-naminori….[:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:]
**and last, i finally got a chance to film swimming with the dolphins. i was lucky enough to have my camera so i took this video clip. so to all my friends who didn’t believe me all these years. BELIEVE… i do this all the time and that’s the reason why i’m such a happy guy…. enjoy…

good morning. 7am monday morning. i just looked outside my house and couldn’t believe how perfect the weather is. deep blue sky with zero clouds. wow…. got some waves around the island too. chest high waves in town, not too many guys out. seen 8 guys out at bowls and not too many at the park. surfed out? yeah… north shore got some small lines coming in. small now but supposed to get 5′ tomorrow. the conditions? perfect sheet glass. just like mentawai. i’m going to get a session in before it gets too hot. have a nice day….

ok, got some information on the ROKKASHOMURA RHAPSODY event coming up. it’s sponsored by surfrider foundation oahu and japan chapter and will be held at the spalsing hall auditorium at the university of hawaii manoa campus. july 12 and 13 so don’t miss it. if you surf, you should see it. if you dive, you should see it. if you want to enjoy our ocean in the future, you should see it. everybody should see it. i’m going and hope to see you there… more information coming up…
**check out one of the most inspirational video i’ve ever seen. i got chicken skin…

good evening. gosh, today was hotter than hot. i went to check the waves but it was too dam hot to surf. it felt like 100 degrees outside. the waves looked pretty good but my bed with a/c was calling me. came home, drank a lot of water, turned on the a/c, and dreamt surfing. had an awesome session….

i went to shoot bowls yesterday and seen sandy out. sandy is a pro bodyboarder from japan. she’s been surfing bowls the past month because she is staying right in front. she took off on a medium wave, came towards me, then did this nuts spin. i closed my eyes and pressed my trigger. came home and when i seen this photo, i was super stoked. super stoked because this is probably the best bodyboard photo i’ve ever taken. perfect spin and perfect smile. makes me want to bodyboard…. thanks sandy…. by the way, i sent this photo in to guy hagi and he ran it on the evening news last night. score…
**ok, split fridays dive into 2 parts. one free diving, and one for the dolphins. this is the free diving one first. mike woo and i went out early to the north shore on friday. the water was really dirty and it got super windy making the diving conditions not that great. we were lucky to pick up some fish, enough for dinner. how did we do it? jump in, spear some fish, then get out before the sharks come. yeah, you don’t want to be diving the north shore in dirty water with bloody fish hanging next to you. if you stay in one place too long, the sharks will come. and with all the great white shark sightings, i don’t want to take a chance. i already feel like their watching us…. so we speared some fish, and moved on. then when we had enough fish in the cooler, we went home. half a day of diving was enough. wait to you see the dolphin footage coming soon.. it’s pretty awesome… your going to wish you were there…. enjoy…