Yesterday once more:  Late season South swell…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Daisuke-san surfed 5x with me on this trip and this morning was the best of the best.  We were the first ones out in the dark and the waves were head high and pumping!  We had it all to ourselves for the first 20 minutes.  He caught 4 sets all to himself.  Check out Daisuke-san’s shadow surfing.  

Then the crowd came out at sunrise so we switched to the rights.  Look how perfect it was!  Imagine coming to Hawaii for your very first time and surfing perfect Bowls for 5 days.  This is where you can practice, and this is where you can get good pretty fast.  

Great to watch the progress day by day.  Daisuke-san is going back to Japan a brand new surfer!  He caught over 70 waves this week which is very hard to do at the best spot on the south shore!

First trip to Hawaii and probably not his last…

The Monday morning ride with Lance Hookano. Head high Bowls.