Thursday October31日 2024年

What Swell?

Another early morning as we were the first guys out.  If you look good, you can see Ryu-san surfing right pass me.  We were surfing under the stars appreciating life the way life supposed to be appreciated.  

As the sky turned color, so did the ocean surface.  It looked like oil!  Ryu-san connecting to the magic board.

The waves were small but big enough to make someone stoked.  We had a blast!  

Since the waves were small, Daisuke-san wanted to do something different.  And since it’s his first time to Hawaii, why not take him to the underwater world?  It was his first time snorkeling so when he first jumped in, I could hear him say “WOW” out of his snorkel.  Haha.  

No wetsuit, no weight belt, this is free diving!  We saw turtles, lots of fish, shells, and it was the best place to be this afternoon.  

By the end of our dive session, Daisuke-san was going deep!  He figured out how to clear his ears, keep calm, and all this on his very first free dive experience.  Cool!  

It was also his first time on a boat so he was so happy!  First time experiences should always done the right way.  

As we came back in and passed Bowls, it was totally flat!!!  Where is that swell that was supposed to be 5-7′ by this afternoon???

October 5, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Scott under the lip…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Zero Visitors

We paddled out in the pitch dark again.  Now my eyes are a lot more adjusted and now I can sense a lot more.  So this morning was a lot easier than yesterday.

I was riding behind Ryu-san on the first few waves.  I could barely see him but I could hear him yelling “Whew, whew!!!”

As the sun creeped up, the rides were a lot more clear.

You can’t beat surfing in perfect conditions like this.  It was so smooth!

Just a few locals out again as the daily morning life goes on.  Another morning with zero visitors.

Jerome caught one of the best rights of the morning.

If you look forward and bend your knees, you will be surprised on your success rate.  It’s at almost at. a 100%.

Ryu-san bending his knees and looking forward.  He caught so many good waves this morning on my magic board.  Every time he paddled back out, he was looking at my board and I know what he was thinking.  Ryu-san was thinking, “how can I get this magic board from Kirby?”  Then he looked at me and we started laughing.  Haha.