The crowd at Bowls has been intense.  If you’re not from here, you most likely won’t get a wave.  There just isn’t enough for everyone.  From left to right, there was Eddie, Bob, Stu, Carter, Ray, Uncle Barry, Bruce, Troy, Lance, and John.  And next to me were 10 other locals.  And inside of us were 10 more.  If you’re a visitor, today wasn’t your lucky day.  

Uncle Barry got one of the best rights of the morning.  

I was paddling out and couldn’t help but get the shot.  Uncle Barry’s finger was almost touching my camera lens.  It doesn’t get any closer than this.

The Uncles continue to inspire me.  I want to surf forever too!  

I just watched a video of Sarigao Island in the Philippines today.  I couldn’t believe this is Cloud 9!!!  What happened???  There were hundreds of people in the lineup???  I first went there over 20 years ago and there was nobody.  Now there are thousands of surfers, too many surf camps, expensive beers, and just way too many distractions.  I fell in love with Sarigao before because it was so natural, so distant, and so peaceful.  Never again…

Yesterday once more:  Surfing with the Surf/Snow legend Mr. Taro Tamai!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Light trade wins at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful morning featuring Eddie and the sunrise.

The locals at Bowls were all out this morning.  Talking story, laughing, and patiently waiting for waves.  Today you needed a lot of patience because there wasn’t enough waves for everyone.

Took a special guest out this afternoon.  So stoked to surf with this legend Snow/Surfer.  Good times as the waves came up. I think the new swell is here!

I’ve been riding a 7’4 with 53 liters on the smaller days and it’s been very fun.  Easier paddling and it keeps on going and going.  Making surfing fun again!