When I first started to free dive, I use to hope the waves were flat everyday.  My job at the time was to surf so if there were waves, I’d have to go surf.  So waking up in the morning and seeing flat conditions was a treat sometimes.  Now, it’s the same feeling.  One of the flat days, it was pouring rain but we took the challenge.

When ever I’m diving, I always swim around with my spear exposed on the surface like this.  This helps my dive partners to locate me, and more importantly, this prevents me from getting run over by other boats.  I teach everybody to dive like this.

It could be windy and stormy but once you go underwater, it’s very calm.  And though my experience, diving without the sun is better because the wildlife have a harder time seeing you.  

These are the smartest creatures in the ocean.  Photos by Mighty Mouse.

Back in the day:  I took the boys out to tako hunt.  They ended up having a tako fight.  Gen and Joshua acting like the kids they were.  And I’m pretty sure they still do it till this day.  Haha.

Surf your dream…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a super fun time surfing and taking photos of Hamano-san this morning.  He’s been surfing for over 40 years and knows how to have a good time.  He told me he lives to surf.

Every single wave he caught, he had a big smile from start to finish.

He rode the longest wave of his life.  From the outside all the way to the wall.  At 66 years old, the energy he had was amazing.

When I got home, Hamano-san sent me a text “It was the most fun I’ve had in my 40 years of surfing.”  Can’t wait to do it again!

Tommy sent me this photo of another sunken boat in the Ala Wai Harbor.  I bet you someone pulled out his drain plug.

For the past week, I’ve seen this young kid on the road multiple times.  He’s probably around 13 years old and rides an illegal dirt bike on the street.  Yesterday, I was driving up my street and he was in front of me doing a wheelie for over a minute.  Pretty impressive…

The water has been really warm recently.  My dive watch recorded 81 degrees (27.3C) so you don’t need a wetsuit right now.  All you need is a rash guard with a visor to protect you from the afternoon sun.  Dove makes it the best!