Tuesday morning and another day of good waves! No rain, lighter winds, and nobody out. Just us and Mother Nature. I love this place!

We were driving down the mountain this morning and I could see the waves breaking so perfectly.  Just like yesterday, my heart started pumping and I was so excited.  I surfed here before so I knew it was going to be epic!  My first wave was blinding.  It was so windy offshore that I couldn’t see a thing taking off on the waves.  I just paddled my hardest and let the muscle memory do the rest.  Gosh, it felt so good catching a wave I knew was going to break perfectly for a very long time!  

This wave is so perfect that it’s like a dream wave.  You’re going full speed and the wave keeps on going and going.  There is no wave comparable to this in Hawaii and if there were, there would be a thousand surfers fighting for it.    

After multiple trips to Taiwan over a three decade span, this was the best waves I ever scored here.  You never know what to expect and when you get something like this, it’s a beautiful thing.      

I came in after Round 1 and we paddled right back out for Round 2.  OMG, Kimura-san caught a pretty big wave and rode it right over the sharp shallow reef right over the rocks.  I closed my eyes watching that because I knew he was going to get hurt.  Thank goodness his wetsuit saved his life.

OMG! The Asian Uluwatu is going off right now! Perfect offshore lefts peeling forever!