September 14, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

In the bubble…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The Essence of Surfing

A Friday morning bottom turn.  Strong, confident, and nice flow.  

Hashimoto-san creating the cutback muscle memory on this trip.  

Mighty Mouse back on her short board and feeling loose.

Surfing much faster and turning a lot quicker.

These are the types of photos I aim for.  It shows you the true essence of surfing.

Hashimoto-san will be smiling all the way back to Japan!  

The 3 days of light winds we had was amazing.  Good surf and amazing views.

Next time the winds back off, that’s where I plan to go.

Switch ON!

After years of hard work, everything is falling into place.  She’s riding the best surfboards, she’s wearing the best wetsuits, and she’s surfing like a world champion.  Haha.  Well, not quite like a world champion, but her dream is to surf like Carissa Moore.  We train physically and mentally in and out of the water, experiment on different surfboards, we talk equipment, I yell, she yells, she cries, but I don’t cry.  Haha.  I told her in the beginning that if you want to be a great surfer, it’s going to take hard work to get there.  And when you work hard, you will see results like this.  Just a few years ago, she could only go straight, now she can go vertical.  And the cool thing is it’s only going to get better…