good morning. 5:30am. couldn’t sleep well. can’t stop thinking about the guy throwing the baby onto the freeway. passed there last night on the way home from the north shore and seen the balloons and stuffed animal memorial. it’s still shocking to me and probably everybody living in hawaii. and i drive by there every single day. babies are so innocent and precious so it hits hard. i’m still lost for words….
as for the surf. it looks pretty good. north shore is still big and good. town still has some chest/shoulder high sets. the winds are light and the skies are clear. i’m going straight to pipe…. have a safe and nice day…

check out these line-up shots i took yesterday at pipe. the conditions were perfect, the weather was perfect, and the waves were perfect. perfect for line-up shots…. snapped this one from the billabong house living room in the morning….

here’s a shot from ehukai beach park in the afternoon. what a huge difference yeah? the waves are twice the size. imagine coming to hawaii from the mainland where there is no ocean and walking up to this. all i could hear at ehukai beach park was “oh my gosh, oh my gosh”…. sounded like me… haha.. but “oh my gosh”, you should have been there. the waves were amazing…. stuck my 7’6 in my car so better prepared today….

and last, check out this ad in the newest surfing life magazine. hungup systems? the smartest idea yet. stick this hanger in the fcs plugs and hand the board up. got to get this system set up in my garage. where can i order 20 hangers for my boards????

good evening. gosh, what a long day. it’s 9:15pm and i just got home from the north shore. the waves? shit!!! going off big huge monster pipeline. i pulled up at 6:45am at pipe expecting it to be 4-5′. seen a couple 6′ sets so i was glad i took my 7’0 with me this morning. paddled out and the waves got bigger and bigger…..

check out this photo i took with my cel. phone camera. perfect pipe/backdoor. sick…. as i paddled out, i was just thinking about getting one good one…. then the waves started coming up pretty fast. by 8am, it was 8′. by 10am, it was 10′, and by 3pm, it was 12’+. after i came in, i was watching for a few hours. all i have to say is that wakita is representing japan really good. every season, he’s getting more and more confident, more and more waves, and more and more respect from the locals. it’s pretty impressive…. oh, not to mention, akira shindo got the backdoor wave of the morning. super sick perfect barrel. somebody got the shot and you’ll see it in some mag for sure….

we passed by sunset on the way to the dove house and it was going off there too. they were holding the junior pro contest and the kids were ripping…. gosh, what a great day of big surf in the north shore. all day offshore winds and perfect conditions…. had a great dinner at cholo’s mexican restaurant with photographers nakajima-san, char, kenji, and web designer naoka…. i feel and smell like a freakin burrito… tomorrow will be another long day so better get some sleep. good night….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]

goo morning. 5:15am aloha friday. the waves should be good all over the island today. south swell, east swell, north swell, and west swell. light winds and clear skies. everybody go surf!!! see ya…
**did you know that hawaiian monk seals are on the endangered species list? there are only 1,200 in the world and only about a hundred in the hawaiian islands. i didn’t realize how few are left. so the other day when i seen a pair swimming by, i guess i was lucky. i wonder where the other 98 were? i’ve swam with them before but if you wondered how they swim under water, check this out. it’s almost the same like swimming with dolphins… freaking cool…..
and if you want to see a hawaiian monk seal in person, head over to kailua beach because there’s one on the beach right now. it’s been there for the past 2 weeks… check him out cruzing. and if you go there to see the monk seal, please don’t bother it. and please don’t take your dog. let him just hang out because one day, you might not be able to see these guys anymore…. enjoy…