good morning, 6:15am here in hawaii. waves all over the island. town is still chest/shoulder high but should be coming up throughout the day. expect solid 4′ by tomorrow. yeah!!! 10 guys out at the park, 5 guys out at rockpiles, and 20 guys already out at bowls. soon, it’s going to be 21 guys. i’m out of here. have a nice day… oh, the WCT Boost Mobile Pro is on now!! CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE…..


check out this clark foam triple stringer gun eric arakawa shaped for craig sako. one of the last one’s you will ever see. eric arakawa is an awesome shaper. through out the years, he’s made me some really good boards. in fact, i still have some in my quiver. eric’s not only one of the worlds top shaper, he’s also one of the nicest guy you will ever meet. skill, patience, understanding, and kindness. what more can you ask for? eric’s the man…. thanks craig for sending me this photo. and what’s up eric….
**i was just checking out yuko’s blog. she’s in malibu right now and when i seen that photo, it brought back some memories. it was in may 2 years ago when i came back from puerto escondido on a stopover in LA. i ended up driving up to santa barbara to check out some dive shops. on the way back, i drove down pacific coast highway and passed by this unreal looking right. it was head high, perfect, uncrowded, and super long. i didn’t know where it was until i seen the sign “malibu”. gosh, the waves looked so good. i thought to myself that this is the famous spot called “malibu” so i got excited and jumped out of the car to grab my board and wetsuit. but, i forgot i left it at my hotel in LA. i haven’t felt so much as a loser before. i still can’t believe it. i haven’t told too many people about this…. haha…. anyway, check out yuko’s blog by CLICKING HERE…..


i took this photo at the santa barbara harbor. gosh, that place is so beautiful. and that’s also the place where tom curren came from. i went there looking for him. haha….

good evening. what a beautiful day it was today. perfect sunny weather with light trade winds. the waves were good all around the island. i was driving around thinking how lucky i am to live in hawaii…. thanks to the people who made that possible…

another secret beach this morning. picture perfect…..

even the coconut trees looked cool…. when i was a kid, i’d never appreciate things like trees and stuff. now that i’m older, i trip out on the beauty of everything around us….

i went to costco today to look for an external portable hard drive. picked up this 160GB for $91. what a deal. for all of you who don’t back up your hard drive, you better do so. your computer can get stolen, lost, or crash in a flash. i lost some photos off my old computer hard drive and i would pay $1,000 to get them back. now i back everthing up so i won’t lose those precious memories ever again….

i went to one of my favorite sandwich places today to eat lunch. while waiting in line, i saw this sign. think about it…..

and last, sunny garcia is back!!! he showed up at the WCT in trestles. he lost to andy irons in the 2nd round but stoked to see him back. how’s the spray? power surfing!! yeah sunny!!

good morning. 6:30am here on this perfect clear day in hawaii. the waves look like it came up a little from yesterday. bowls has chest high waves and it should be getting bigger by tomorrow. 2 guys out at rockpiles, 7 guys out at bowls, and 6 guys out at the park. the conditions are once again epic. light winds, clear skies, and fun waves. it’s going to be a nice day. north shore had some 3′ perfect waves yesterday and another north swell on the way. have a fun and safe day….

the Bra Boys are from Maroubra, Australia. these guys are the real deal surfers, and brothers. check out their film they made about their lives growing up in Maroubra. i didn’t know where Maroubra was or who the Bra Boys were until i went to the philippines in 2003. sunny abberton, mark matthews, andy king, and some others flew over for the contest at cloud 9. i met them the first day i got there and got to hang out with them for 2 weeks. they were some of the nicest surfers i’ve ever met. kind, well mannered, and freakin surfed so good. ever since then, i’ve been hearing a lot about the Bra Boys and the Alberton brothers. things i read in the papers and things from other people. some good, some bad. their life story is pretty interesting and i can’t wait to see the film. sunny alberton directed the film and their close friend russell crowe is narrating it. go check it out and see how hard core surfers grew up in a tough neighborhood and beat the odds….

this is a photo filipino photographer kathy chua sent me last year. director and bra boy sunny alberton is in the middle, to his right is his brothers andy king, mark matthews, matt griggs, and jay tompson. far left is aaron fridette. a keeper photo….
**check out the trailor to the BRA BOYS….

there was another earthquake and tsunami in indonesia today. it measured 8.2M and sent a 9′ tsunami to padang. yes, padang. the place where you fly in to and get on the boat for a mentawai trip. i’ve been there 3 times and one of the times, there was a huge earthquake there too. i can imagine what this girl is feeling. pretty freaking scary….