good morning. this is what i wake up to every morning in shikoku. this is why japan is “the land of the rising sun”…. here is kohei chiba heading out for an early morning session at his home spot…. and that’s where i’m heading to right now. have a nice day….

oh my gosh again!!!! the waves were bigger today then yesterday. i pulled up to the river mouth at 5:30am and seen some 10-12′ sets. nobody was out and i seen a couple inside ones that were barreling. i wanted to try to get one so i paddled out through the harbor and as i got to the lineup, i didn’t realize how big the waves were. it was freakin huge!! it was too risky to sit in the inside and wait for the good ones because there were huge freak sets coming through. especially after getting cleaned up yesterday. yesterday was yesterday and today was today. i was by myself and the waves were a lot bigger today. so i sat on the outside and waited. i caught 2 waves with my 7’6 and was over it. just a little too risky. if my board or leash broke, i would have been history. i thought about that when i was coming in. kind of late yeah. anyway, we all headed over to the boat harbor and had a mini japan boat trip. went to this secret spot where i surfed 10 years ago with matchi. the waves were pumping. solid 8-10′ hawaiian scale with bigger freak sets!!! the boys here were charging hard. got a couple snaps before i went out. check it out….

no, this is not a joke. this is japan today. typhoon 9 finally showed its power. my friends in hawaii are going to freak when they see this photo. this is ueda-san, owner of SMAC surfboards on the biggest wave of the day. he set up on this bottom turn and pulled into the barrel. i’ll bust the barrel photo out later. all the boys on the beach were amping out. it was pretty awesome….

munetoro tanaka dropped in late on this bomb. he was riding an 8’0 board so you figure out how big this wave is. i’d say 25′ face? what do you think? anyway, there were broken boards, happy faces, and many more photos to come. stay tuned to what’s shaping up to be a memorable typhoon season in japan…. i’m beat. tomorrow will be yet another unreal day of surfing. can’t wait……oyasuminasai….
**and just wanted to note that the boys here in shikoku were charging this typhoon. yesterday’s surfing and today’s surfing was just unbelievable. i’ve been surfing here for the past 15 years and it’s so cool to see everybody going bigger and bigger. right on. keep on surfing…..
***and get this, i was so freaking tired last night that i spaced out and forgot to post the blog i did. anyway, check out the next post. this is from lastnight…..

good evening. gosh, another great day of surfing here in japan. the waves were going off and it’s got to be in my top 10 sessions ever. and top 5 biggest waves i surfed here. i’m still stoked and buzzing about this morning. got barreled=stoked. got pounded=not so stoked. but you got to pay your dues. that’s the cool thing about surfing. you can have fun and ride good waves. then just get slapped on your ass. everyday your taking a risk while surfing but it’s worth the thrill.
oh, went on a little boat trip this evening. too sunburned and tired to download the photos. post them tomorrow. anyway, have a great evening and good night sleep. zzzzz……..

check out this photo my friend derek sent me. this is him doing a wheely with his vw dunebuggy. yes, that’s on the streets of hawaii. derek’s nuts. i remember the old days when we use to race around town and drive like we were in a nintendo video game. now 20 years later, doing the same thing. my friends and i will never grow up. never…..

if you think parking is expensive in hawaii, take a look at this. every 10 minutes is about a buck. and there’s no limit. last time we went to drink at the beach house in hayama, our parking bill was more than our food bill. taxi……