good evening. got on a 2 hour train ride down to shizuoka. went for a dive but the water was really rough and dirty. we managed to get some food. photos coming later. gosh, it’s so cool to have surfer/diver friends all over japan. waves or no waves, we still can have fun. just wanted to say to all you surfers out there that you should get into freediving. it’s the best training for your surfing and it puts food on the table. the fish you catch yourself is the bestest tasting fish in the world. every single time. i just can’t get enough….. tomorrow is the barrels clinic. the waves should be coming up so it should be an epic fun day. see you there…. goodnight….
craig sako just sent me these photo of his new family. 8 fresh newborn piglets. if you want one, he’ll probably give you one. just so long as you don’t eat it. thanks for the photo craig. kalua was once a cute little piglet too. but now, he’s a cute big fat pig….. oink oink….
kelia got an interview on surfline.com. some more photos in freesurf mag. and another poster shot for the waihine classic in california. this girl is blowing up…. yeah sis…
and last. this is taiji. this is where the dolphin killings will take place starting next month. pulling up there last week was pretty weird. i can’t even describe how i was feeling. after watching the video of the blood in that same bay, it was trippy seeing it so peaceful and so beautiful. there’s 2 sides to the story and i’ll get to that sometime when i have time to sit down and really think about it. much more about this topic coming…..
The 6 Little Pigs…..
Kaisers in Isonoura…
this is kaisers surf shop in isonoura. te-chan is the man there and this is where dexter shimabukuro and ronnie yamada hang out when they come to japan. it’s such a cool place with a lot of “aloha spirit”….
this car is the bomb. some hawaiian style in wakayama…..
this is the view from the aloha cafe upstairs of kaisers. got a cool breeze flowing and the mango juice is the best….
i took this off a video i took there 8 years ago. get this. it’s a lot more crowded these days. i freaked out the first time i surfed there…. this is the most packed beach in the world by far….
Surf, Dive, and Some Funnnn…..
took a day away from the computer to visit chiba with naoka for a surf, dive, and some fun…..
hayato and i took naoka diving into a world with no computers, phones, and absolutely no stress. a good way to reset the mind. on the way back from chiba, naoka said now he understands why we love to dive and why we don’t care if the waves are flat…. no complaints. and there were no complaints when we were eating this black abalone sashimi and tempura style for lunch. thanks mari-chan…..
i don’t care how the waves are when i’m surfing with friends. just to surf together is the fun part of surfing. the waves were knee high and onshore but we had so much fun. if i was by myself, i wouldn’t even have paddled out. oh, look good on the left. that’s kenji sahara. he was on a photo shoot with 14 year old kugenuma’s nao omura. gosh, that girl is so cute. reminds me of kelia. and she rips too. ganbatte nao….
imagine 2 guys pulling up to the beach with this little green car. and imagine 3 guys pulling up to a dive spot with our spears going for a dive. must have looked classic…. when yuko shimajiri seen us driving this car, she couldn’t stop laughing. i don’t blame her. thanks mae-chan for letting us borrow your cute little VW to go to chiba….
this is jasmine and hide. two cool people living in a cool house with a cool 360 degree view. all i can say that it was freaking cool….. thanks guys for letting us crash out in the guest room…. oh, check out that artwork jasmine drew on hide’s board. sick…..
there was this little yakitori shop right down the street of jasmine’s house. gosh, it was soooooo goooood. especially the liver sashimi…..
want to have fun and eat good food? you better come here….
it was so awesome to bump into old friends there. gosh, what a small world we live in…. i love it….
now i’m back in shonan. waves are flat and it’s raining. but you know what? there is a typhoon right outsite of tokyo that’s sending us some east swell. look for epic surf starting sunday. yeah!!!