Round 1:  Dawn patrol Bowls empty parking lot again!  I love it!  Waves still overhead and good.

Clean conditions too.

Another day, another rainbow.

This solid south swell continues.  I’m almost completely surfed out…

Blue Hawaii!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Here was the surf report for today and it was pretty accurate.  Yesterday I searched for a perfect wave.  Today I went to search for the biggest wave.  I drove around and around and ended up finding a spot I’ve never surfed before.  I only took my 6’10 because I either wanted to get a big wave or nothing.  That was my mentality for the morning.  

Bowls was 8′, big, brown water, and crowded.  This spot was different.  Big, clean water, and uncrowded.  I couldn’t believe what I saw.  One of the most perfect barreling rights I’ve ever seen on the south shore in my life.  I had to throw my board and dive under about 10 waves like this.  It felt like I was surfing the north shore.

My 6’10 was new until today.  I got sucked into the reef and it was either my surfboard or me.  Last time at Rocky Point I chose my surfboard, today I chose me.  

This was right when I paddled out.  I got stuck on the dry reef twice, I even had to push off the reef with my left foot.  When I pushed off, I felt intense pain.  30 needles from a sea urchin was sticking out of my foot.  I screamed like a girl.  My board was damaged, my foot was in pain, but I was still determined to surf.

When you’re surfing, you don’t feel any pain.  All you feel is the adrenaline of riding mountains.  This day I will remember for the rest of my life.  I’m hoping there is still enough swell for this spot tomorrow.  We shall see.  

I had a hard time walking back to my car.  I soaked my foot in vinegar for 1 hour and there are still spines deep inside.  Was it worth it?  Absolutely!