This morning we scored the North shore!  Overhead sets and perfect conditions!  One of my best sessions of the year so far!

The last storm was crazy.  We were out in the ocean and all of a sudden, the winds turned strong onshore and the rain came down heavy.  This is very rare and happens once in many years.  It’s a little scary because you can’t see anything.  

You can’t even see if a wave is going to break on your head.  And you can’t even see land so you have no idea which way to go.

I saw Nakahodo-san trying to see but it was impossible.  That was such a great experience.

When it rains like that, all the rubbish from the rivers flow into the ocean.  As Nakahodo-san was doing a bottom turn on this perfect wave at Bowls yesterday, there was a big crate that popped up right under his surfboard.  

Now there is a nice channel in the bottom of the board.  OMG! Shock!

Yesterday at Bowls.  Sunrise surfing with Nakahodo-san on the perfect right.

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore overhead and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
No wind so epic morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Early morning at Bowls with the boys.  Fun waves, clean conditions, warm weather, and long rides.

Matsuda-san’s first time surfing in Hawaii.  He was ripping every wave and paddling back out with the biggest smile.

Perfect day to enjoy the surfing culture in Hawaii for the first time.  It was uncrowded again so lots of waves for everyone.

Nakahodo-san had a very humbling experience for Round 2 yesterday.  So today he focused on quantity of waves over quality of waves and ended up with both.

It’s so nice to surf Bowls in the winter when it feels like summer.  The boys surfed good today and went home happy.

Round 2:  Passing Diamond Head and observing how green it is now.  It’s the greenest it’s ever been.  We had a wonderful afternoon surf session.  The waves were half the size as yesterday but much cleaner conditions.  Yesterday was humbling, today was exciting!