Backdoor: Ride or Die Part 4

Like I said in my last post, this is where things started to go wrong.  I had the perfect angle to what could possible be the best Backdoor barrel of my life.  Look at all that disturbance from the 4 guys that were in my way!  

Right here is when I felt something weird right beneath my fins.  The bodyboarder that duck dove right under me created a slight turbulence that caused air to disrupt the fins that were keeping me in line.  I felt an air pocket that made the tail of my surfboard slightly lift.  Then instead of going on the right path, my board started to slide sidewards.

Right here I tried to regain control.  I kept calm and hoped for the best.  This is when time stands still because there are only 2 outcomes.  One is to have the best barrel of your life.  The other being to have the worst wipeout of your life.  One will give you glory, the other will make you humble.  A cut on my leg, a bruised rib, and a very humbling experience followed…

March 10, 2025 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Tokura-san from behind.

Good morning 5am.
North shore head high and bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Surf Forever

Today was such a beautiful day in Hawaii!  What made it more beautiful was I got to surf with Tokura-san and Deco-san.

I can’t believe Tokura-san is 76 years old!  He’s been inspiring me for the past 33 years.  It’s every surfers dream to be able to surf forever.  I’m hoping for the same!

Deco-san surfs with style.  Always flowing and always smiling.  Such a pleasure to watch.

I just got a brand new custom 1mm Dove Wetsuit!  It fits perfectly, it’s warm, it protects me from sunburn, and it makes me happy!  Thank you always DOVE!

Thank you guys for the fun surf session today!  So stoked to see you surfing and smiling!!!