Round 1: Takahashi san enjoying the beautiful ride!

Riding in the dark…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore chest high.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I went to look at Diamond Head this morning and it was super small.  The biggest sets were stomach high but very long rides.  There were only a few surfers out and it looked fun.

So I get back in my car, take a long drive, and arrive at my secret spot.  The rocks were so slippery but I couldn’t wait to surf because it was only me again!  Thank goodness I didn’t fall.  I was so excited to try out Joshua Moniz’s board.

When I first paddled out on it, it felt like a toothpick.  It was very narrow and thin that I had a hard time balancing on it.  But once I took off on my first wave, it felt like magic.  Very sensitive and very responsive.  I felt like a teenager again!

I went out this morning to challenge myself so that’s why I took this board.  Surfing felt so alive again!

HIC shaped by Kerry Tokoro.  OMG, Josh is going to have a hard time getting this surfboard back from me.  Haha.  I’m definitely going to try it on better waves.

Came home to a beautiful rainbow.  Rain, sun, showers, and clouds.  I love winter in Hawaii!