Yesterday once more:  Overhead northeast swell with perfect conditions!

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore shoulder high from the east.
Ala Moana waist high from the east.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and clouds. Big storm coming.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was so fun!  I did a training session with Japanese pro surfer Roy Kanazawa.  This is only the 2nd time we surfed together but I can totally connect with him.  Watching his every wave and every maneuver carefully and trying to make it better.  Roy’s level is so high already but he wants get better.  A kid with big dreams!  

Roy is from Shikoku so is very mellow.  Super humble and quiet.  This is the kind of surfer that surprises you once he catches a wave.  I was very impressed by his surfing level.  

As for the waves, it was a lot better than I expected.  I thought it was going to be flat so I actually put masks and snorkels in my car.  If it was flat, I was going to take Roy to run with 50 lbs. rocks under water at Waimea Bay.  But the waves were good and because we are surfers, we surfed!  

Such a cool surfer!  Want to say hello to all my friends in Shikoku!  Miss you all and hope to share barrels with you in the future.

Early morning North Shore was so good! Overhead and clean. Cloudy but warm. Lots of good waves.