Abunai again!  Everybody please look forward!  Not at me!

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Southwest winds at 10mph.
Side onshore but still good.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Super early session at Bowls.  There was still some swell so today was the perfect day for moonlight surfing.

Imagine surfing for the very first time.  Then paddling out to the ocean in the pitch dark.  Then right as you get to the waves, someone yells out loud to you “Turn around and GO!!!!”  That’s exactly what happened and here is Horiguchi-san riding his first wave of his life.  In the dark!

Then we continued to surf as the sun started to rise.  I’ve never seen a first time surfer get good as fast as this.  It was so cool to see.

By light, Horiguchi-san caught 15 waves and rode them perfectly.  We had so much fun this morning.

When we were surfing, there were police, firemen, and ambulance in the parking lot.  I asked one of my police officer friends what happened.  He said someone was hunting in the dark for crabs.  He was hunting in the Ala Wai Boat harbor channel when a big boat ran him over.  Hit him and cut him up pretty badly.  And the big boat didn’t even know so he kept on going.  Now the police are looking for the boat but regardless, it was the hunters fault.  You never ever place yourself in a boat channel in the pitch dark.  It’s illegal, and it’s dangerous.  He found out the hard way.  I drive Mayuki in that channel in pitch darkness many times and I can’t see anything in front so please get out of the way!

Round 2:  Mid-morning as the waves got bigger and better.  Yesterday was crowded, today was empty.  Scored!

Head high set.  The take off.

Keeping calm and getting ready for the bottom turn.

Pushing hard and looking solid.  Sequence of Rocky…