I got a notification on my phone from Santa Claus last night.  He said “come now to the airport as my reindeers just dropped off your Christmas presents!”  I was already in bed half asleep but when I saw that message, I jumped in my car in my pajamas and headed to meet Santa.  

OMG, I must have been a good boy this year because I opened the box and saw 4 freshly custom made surfboards.  OMG!  

I’m going to wax these up and now I’m ready for everything.  Can’t wait to ride these beautiful surfboards.  Thank you Santa!  

Drove by Diamond Head this afternoon and it looked super fun!  Long rides for everyone.  Merry Christmas!

Eddie Aikau update:  The waves are supposed to get huge tomorrow.  Maybe even too big for the contest?  It will grow fast and possibly be the biggest swell in decades.  I just checked the buoy and as of 6pm, the swell isn’t showing yet.  But it’s out there and hopefully it arrives in time for the Eddie Contest tomorrow morning.  They are expecting 50,000 people at Waimea Bay.  Crazy!!!

Epic conditions continue…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore giant! 15-20′ and even bigger tomorrow.
Eddie Aikau ON tomorrow morning at 8am.
Ala Moana flat to knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I had a feeling that a secret spot I use to surf would be good today.  It’s a very far drive and an even farther paddle.  It’s always a gamble to go out there, but I like to gamble.  Good tide, good winds, and good swell direction.  This is what makes surfing so exciting.  It’s actually like going on a mini surf trip because nobody surfs there on days like this.

Even though it was high tide this morning, it was still very shallow.  I would keep on hitting the reef when I was siting on my board.  But when the waves came, it was perfect!

Surfed for an hour, caught so many long waves, and had the time of my life.  It’s these winter days I love the most.  Everybody is scrambling around the island to surf and when you score, it’s a great feeling!