Let’s go back to yesterday.  Started off with surfing some perfect waves with nobody out.  The swell is still here!  It was just us in the morning scoring this epic lineup.  Yes it looks pretty, but it’s very shallow and dangerously breaking right in front of sharp rocks.  I’m just glad nobody got hurt.

Back to our place.  We are the only guests staying in this big 2 story hotel.  There is 4 staff catering to all our needs.  Feeling special.

This is the breakfast that is included.  Healthy and happy food!  

Then we drove around looking for shells and found this cool bridge.  Over 3000 steps we took to finish this course but we made it.  

After surfing these past 2 days, I told Kimura-san that he was probably the oldest surfer to ever surf that dangerous surf spot.  And now he’s probably the oldest surfer to sit on a kids ride.  And maybe I’m the second oldest?  Haha.

We found a town next to a fishing port that has some good restaurants.  Tried this one out for dinner and it was amazing!

This seafood salad was my favorite.  

Kimura-san was trying to watch the Japan vs. China soccer game last night on his iPhone.  But for some reason, it wasn’t available for Japanese users.  I tried with my iPad and it worked!  I was trying to go to sleep but I could hear him yelling from his room.  He woke me up a couple times, then everything went silent.  I hope Japan won!

Tuesday morning and another day of good waves! No rain, lighter winds, and nobody out. Just us and Mother Nature. I love this place!

We were driving down the mountain this morning and I could see the waves breaking so perfectly.  Just like yesterday, my heart started pumping and I was so excited.  I surfed here before so I knew it was going to be epic!  My first wave was blinding.  It was so windy offshore that I couldn’t see a thing taking off on the waves.  I just paddled my hardest and let the muscle memory do the rest.  Gosh, it felt so good catching a wave I knew was going to break perfectly for a very long time!  

This wave is so perfect that it’s like a dream wave.  You’re going full speed and the wave keeps on going and going.  There is no wave comparable to this in Hawaii and if there were, there would be a thousand surfers fighting for it.    

After multiple trips to Taiwan over a three decade span, this was the best waves I ever scored here.  You never know what to expect and when you get something like this, it’s a beautiful thing.      

I came in after Round 1 and we paddled right back out for Round 2.  OMG, Kimura-san caught a pretty big wave and rode it right over the sharp shallow reef right over the rocks.  I closed my eyes watching that because I knew he was going to get hurt.  Thank goodness his wetsuit saved his life.