Early morning was good.  Just the Uncles enjoying this beautiful Sunday morning.

Back on the 6’4 and catching every wave.

Super clean conditions if you caught the right wave.

Successful landing of the late drop.

Imagine never touching a surfboard in your whole life.  Then come to Hawaii and start surfing on a 11’0 longboard.  Practicing throughout the years and working your way down to a shortboard.  Surfing Bowls and learning mannerism, respect, and surf etiquette.  Then today, the best wave of the day comes right to you, you take off, turn left, and ride it perfectly.  Then you paddle back out and all the local boys are clapping for you.  It was a special moment.  It was real.  And it was amazing!  One of the local Uncles said “she went from zero to hero!”   Congratulations girl!

Last, Jeannie and the rainbow…

Diamond Head local time.  Thanks for sharing boys!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Cloudy morning becoming sunny.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

If you step on sea urchin, it sucks.  There are 2 ways to deal with it.  One is to go to the hospital and pay $500.  The other way it to buy a cheap bottle of vinegar and soak your foot in it for an hour.  If you choose the first way, a doctor at the hospital will get a bucket and soak your foot in the same kind of vinegar.  That’s $500 compared to $2.  You choose.  

Another day of unexpected waves.  This last swell wasn’t big, but it was clean, fun, and lasted for days.  

Lance Hookano gets the best waves out anywhere he surfs.  I think being a local legend helps.  

Carter getting some nice turns in before work starts.

Kawika almost barreled.

From riding a 7’6 again yesterday afternoon, to a high performance 5’10 this morning.  In fact, let’s call it a highest performance board because it’s Josh Moniz’s personal board.  

The girls caught so many waves and went home happy again.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Good waves again if you choose the right surfboard.  As I was watching the waves, I was also watching Ryo and his friend doing maintenance and taking care of the mountain.  Cool guys for doing that.  

Then got more moments from this morning, thanks to the girls personally photographer Alen.  Nice wave girl!

Practicing everyday and you can see the results.