Back in the Day 2015:  Chigasaki surf life…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Big and new South swell coming tomorrow.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I have this photo on my refrigerator.  I am forever grateful for the person who took it.  I was out one late evening in Waikiki teaching my little Princess how to surf.  She must have been 5 years old at the time so I probably promised her ice cream if she went surfing with me.  We caught waves together, we were laughing, we were the 2 happiest people in the ocean.  I didn’t have my camera that day so it was just our moment to remember.  The next day, my sisters friend called me and told me to come pick up some photos.  When I saw this for the first time, I actually teared up.  Just by looking at this photo, I can relive that moment over and over.   A precious moment where the ocean gave this little girl a wave, and she rode it so gracefully.  “The Beach is OUR Happy Place!”

Today I decided to open every one of my surfboard bags and see what’s inside it.  I thought I should get rid of 10 or so but after I finished checking them all, I got rid of none.  I have 84 surfboards that mean the world to me.  Keeping them for life…

The swells and barrels continue…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!