This is the first real South swell since last summer. Everybody has waited months and months for this day so I wasn’t surprised surfing with 50 other locals this morning. Barak getting ready to hit the lop. 
Carter flying down the line on his carbon “Great White.” 
The girls were looking really comfortable out there today. So to make this girl uncomfortable, I told her to climb up the rocks and exit the ocean this way. This is scary for first timers, and also very dangerous. But like everything else, you have to practice. 
This is called “The Rockdance.” 
She did it! Now she must do it another thousand times to make the uncomfortable feel comfortable. 
After lunch, we went back out for Round 2! Super warm and good waves. It felt like summer again!
