Had a great time surfing with Hirano san this morning. He’s coming from a very cold place in Japan called Akita. And today it felt just as cold in Hawaii. We were freezing but when the sun shined, it was all good.
I just love watching from behind like this. The smiles and view can’t be beat.
Now I can trust this girl that she won’t look at me and hit me. I’m literally right in front of her as she passes by. Excellent surfing again!
When the waves get double overhead, she’s going to be surfing just like this. And I’m hoping the wave breaks over her head so she can get her first barrel. Can’t wait to see that happen.
And this girl is taking her surfing to another level. Smaller board and bigger turns. Huge improvements. Wind swell and warmer weather tomorrow.
All you need is a burner and a frying pan to prepare a feast.
This is the same kole the girls speared. Deep fried to a crisp that is absolutely the best. The first thing they said was “when can we go diving again???” Haha.
Want to congratulate Mateus for completing the Aloha Fun Run. Good job on waking up early and running the 8.2 miles. I’m so proud of you!
