The morning dance…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore shoulder high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Cold morning and cool sunny day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The cool North wind this morning was very cold.  In fact, the coldest in a very long time.  But North winds means epic conditions in Town.  Straight offshore and beautiful.  Also not too crowded because of the coldness.

Took out this young local girl.  Super athletic and a very fast learner.  And forgot to say, very smart too.

If she can learn how to surf this fast, I can imagine how fast she will learn other things in life.  Good job Haley!

Boot Camp in progress.  Teaching this girl about timing, about positioning, and about foot placement.  For those of you beginners out there, this is exactly where you want to take off.  You want to be standing on the peak of the wave using the energy to make your first bottom turn.

And the first bottom turn dictates the rest of the wave.  Now we are into advanced surfing technique.  It only gets better!

Yesterday afternoon at Bowls was very interesting.  It was offshore and glassy when we got out, then an onshore storm came.  Then everybody went it.  Then it cleared up and got really good again.  Then another storm came with the onshore winds.  The conditions were changing by the minute.  That was cool!  

Here’s some advice for surfers.  If you hit the reef, hit your board, or think something may have happened to your surfboard, you should check your board immediately.  Not the next day before you paddle out to an epic session.  Got it?