Yesterday’s best spot:  Diamond Head

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore head high and bumpy. Getting bigger tonight.
Ala Moana waist high and cleaning up.
Diamond Head chest high and better.
North/West winds at 10mph.
Sunny and cool day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was a pleasant surprise to pull up to Diamond Head and see such beautiful waves.  After two and a half days of junky surf, it turned out to be super fun.  

This girl couldn’t wait to get out and start Boot Camp.

It’s so cool to see someone get so connected to the ocean.  The first time I brought her out here, she was totally lost at sea.  Now, she knows exactly where the good waves will break.  I watched her get a couple and then I headed down the cliff.  

The sun was back out, the winds were a little chilly, and the waves were good.  I don’t think anyone knew it was going to get good because the ocean was empty.  

Surfing is something you will never forget.  Yes, you might get a little rusty, but once you get the feeling back, it’s back!  Great rides on Boot Camp Day 1 girl!

Diamond Head this afternoon. Big improvement! Welcome back to Boot Camp!