On his last day, we went to surf a secret spot in front of my friends house.  Waves good, board working good, and excellent rides.  The best day in this surfers career.  When we came in all happy, my friend said “hey, I headed up the sauna for you guys.  And the ice bath too.”  Perfect end to a great day of care for the body, mind, and soul.

Surfing and foiling are similar.  You have to know the basics, and practice and practice until it’s all muscle memory.  Once that happens, it’s really easy after that.  A brand new Superman!  

Ryu-san’s surfing went up 3 levels on this trip.  His dream to fly will come soon too.  

And the boys turning into men.  Look at Ryu-san in the background waving a shaka while his son Konosuke-kun is waving two shakas.  I love these kind of moments.

And to see Sounosuke-kun growing up and feeling comfortable in the ocean was amazing.  This day turned this boy into a man.

OMG!  Thank you Sandy Beach.

Good morning 5am.
Junky surf again.
North shore 8-10′ and super junky.
Ala Moana chest high and super junky.
Diamond Head shoulder and super junky.
South/West winds at 20mph.
Rain, clouds, and hopefully some sun later.
Have a wonderful day!

The weather and waves were super bad today.  The worst day in months.  So, instead of surfing, I went shopping.  Shopping for food.  

The first time I ate pigs feet was in Chigasaki about 25 years ago.  Tokura-san took me to a yakiniku restaurant and I almost threw up when I saw him eating it.  Eating dirty pigs feet?  What?  Anyway, he let me try one and ever since, that’s been my favorite.  

So I bought a big bag today and tomorrow’s dinner will be pigs feet.  Can’t wait!  

After about a month in the water surfing 2 rounds each day, today was a day to rest my body.  My first drink of the year is this lovely bottle of red wine.  One of my favorites!  

After breaking over 15 GoPros over the years, I’m hoping this one lasts more than a month.  

If you’re looking for the worst customer service on the island, go to Lowe’s hardware.  I’ve ordered a refrigerator that didn’t come, a washer that was delivered damaged, and a dryer that got cancelled the morning it was supposed to come.  They don’t apologize, they don’t reply, and they don’t answer their phones.  The only way is to go into the store and wait in line.  Nobody takes accountability, and it’s excuse after excuse.  So when I went there today and saw this sign, it tells you a lot.  It’s literally saying not to swear, threat, or beat up the staff.  The 2 people in front of me in the line pretty much did everything except beat up the staff.  Haha.