Always waiting for the perfect wave…
Good morning 4:20am.
High surf warning for East shore.
East swell coming up to 6-8′ today. Jurassic’s going off.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
North/East winds at 25mph today.
Rainy morning becoming cloudy. Hopefully some sun.
Cloudy and rainy winter weather continues all week.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
Check out what I found in my closet. 26 years ago, Tony Moniz gave me a couple of Eddie Aikau posters that have been in my closet ever since. It’s very rare to have it in this condition. Eddie surfing Waimea Bay with no leash. This is a classic…
The invitees were all watermen like Brock Little, Gary Elkerton, Titus Kinimaka, Vetea David, Mark Occhilupo, David Standt, and Tony Moniz. A very historic year!
I also found another mini skateboard from over 30 years ago. I made 3 of these and still have them. Rode it to the train stations in Japan, threw it in my backpack, and traveled all over with these.
You would be surprised how fast these little skateboards go. But you better not fall because it will hurt.
Chasing typhoons in Japan use to be my passion. And also my job. Nothing came in-between that. If there was a super typhoon, I dropped everything and made sure I was on the very first of the arriving swells. And riding waves all the way to the last. I can’t tell you where this is but as you can see, it’s gonna barrel forever!
A very long time ago, Tokura-san invited me to explore the Banyak Islands. Our boat was one of the fastest in Indonesia so we decide to start at Padang Harbor, pass by the Mentawai Islands, stopped over in Telos, then stop by Nias, then make our way to the Banyak Islands. It must have taking over 2 days to get there. Back then, nobody explored that North so there were no other boats and zero surf camps. It felt like we were in a totally different world. Surfing, fishing, diving, and having Bintang time every night. We explored and scored! Check out some of the photos from that trip below…
Thank you Sanssouci 2.
