Another beautiful morning as the new South swell started to arrive.  Still small, but much bigger than yesterday for sure.  Tomorrow even bigger so enjoy this out of season swell!

It’s been super windy but the conditions have been super clean.

Malcom, Jeannie, and me riding the same wave together.  Lovely.

Three times on the foil this week and the workouts are amazing.  Lots of energy and lots of adrenaline riding these waves.

I heard the waves at Jurassic’s has been super good but also like 40 foilers out there.  I’d rather be here alone on my foil.  This is my foil dream session.

A friend just passed away the other day while foiling Jurassic’s.  I want to thank him for his kindness and wish him eternal peace.  Will be thinking about you Brother…

Tokura-san invited me on many boat trips.  This one was to the Banyaks back when nobody knew where the Banyaks was.  It took a couple of days to get there from Padang Harbor, but once we passed Nias, we didn’t see any other person the whole trip.  Scoring waves like this all to ourselves.  

The fishing in Sumatra is excellent too!  Lots of action all day long.  

Clean water, warm weather, nice waves, and a good crew.  This is what you call a perfect boat trip.  

We’d surf, we’d play, and we’d play.  This was our Disneyland.  

After surf, I’d go dive for our evening Bintang appetizers.  It was like an underwater fish market.  

Sashimi, beers, music, stories, and lifetime memories.  These boat trips were some of the best times of my life.

Total Freedom!!!