Thursday November28日 2024年

Earthquakes, Snakes, and Tigers…..

good morning on this beautiful cold sunday morning in japan. gosh, yesterday was another great day of surfing. it all started off at 3:47am when i awoke to a big earthquake. not the side to side kind, but the up and down kind. my alarm was set at 3:55am anyway so i got up and left forgetting to brush my teeth. nah.. went to tokura-san’s house, loaded up his van, and headed to pick up the yugawara groms….

this was the sunrise on the way. gosh, it’s been so long since i saw the sun. i forgot how happy it makes me feel….

these are the yugawara groms. ryota and shun. both 10 years old or so and rippers. it was shun’s first time to a river mouth so i was stoked to be with him. i guarantee he will never forget this day… i’ve never seen two groms get so many barrels in a day…. ryota and shun are coming to hawaii this winter season. they are going to freak…. can’t wait…

this was the wave when we first pulled up. this is a secret river mouth so i can’t say where it is. just that it’s near a big mountain. anyway, big mountain river mouth was going off…. perfect overhead barreling super long lefts. i’ve been surfing perfect rights all year so it felt good going backside on a wave where you could do anything you want. pull in, or hit the lip. just glassy perfection…. score again. i feel like i got so many good waves this year that some surfers won’t experience in their whole lifetime. just wanted to thank the people that always make it happen for me. i’m sitting on my bed typing this with a pretty big smile on my face. life is good…..

there is a river you have to cross to get to big mountain river mouth. in the river, there are deadly snakes and alligators so you have to be careful where you walk. once you get through the river, there are bushes that have bears and tigers hiding inside. it’s a pretty nuts place so i wouldn’t go there if i were you….
**anyway, wanted to thank toda-san, takami-san, and the big mountain locals for sharing their waves with us. had a great time and can’t wait till next year… doomo arigato gozaimasu….

Free Wallpaper from Go-Naminori…

good morning. i’m going to chase typhoon 15. the waves came up out of the south yesterday so today should be cranking. see you in the water…

hello everyone, we just put up some free wallpaper on go-naminori. just click on a photo and it will download to your desktop. CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE DOWNLOAD PAGE…..

this is called a “daiko”. it’s like a taxi service in japan except they drive your car home. if you drink one beer and drive in japan, you will get caught in a roadblock. then it’s $3,000 per drunken passenger + driver. so we call these guys to pick us up. two guys pull up in a car, one guy jumps into your car and drives everybody home. all for around $30. well worth it. i wish we had these guys in hawaii…

Chicken Fight Week….

here is another blog i did but forgot to post. i guess the food poisoning made me space out. oh well, here it is….

gosh, even after i got food poisoning, i can’t stop trying different foods at different places. i love filipino food and want to try everything while i’m here. this was chicken/squash soup with rice on the side. so far, so good…..

the national sport here is chicken fighting. they have it every weekends and it’s super cool to see. i can’t wait to go tomorrow. it’s illegal in hawaii but what the heck, this ain’t hawaii…..

oh, the night of the black out. we went to a bar called “nine bar”. the food was good, the drinks were good, and the good time i had with my friends was even better. hayato, me, sagana owners naoka and gerry, and tokura-san. this photo is going on my wall in my house…..

and last, josh down in okinawa sent some galleries of typhoon 12. should be coming up soon so check back. but for now, check out this sick okinawan double rainbow…. thanks josh and see you soon…
***back to today. check out typhoon 15 bearing down on taiwan. the eye is bigger than the city of taipei. freaking huge. chinese, take cover…

***and by the way, the WCT mundaka pro is on. mick fanning could be world champion if he wins. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE….