Princess Leia is only 5 years old and today was her very first surf experience.  She was so brave and popped up on her first ride.  It was funny because I don’t think she knew what to feel.  Imagine getting up on a surfboard and gliding over the ocean?  Yes, this is the best Disneyland in the world!

The smile after a ride says it all.  I was about this age when I caught my very first wave and I still remember it very well.  Good job Princess Leia!

Mama Toshimi-san hasn’t surfed for a while but after a few waves, all the muscle memory came back.  This is a very nice ride!

The waves were super fun and only had 2 other surfers out.  We all know that if this were Japan, there would be a hundred surfers for sure.  It’s hard to believe we are in the middle of Winter in Hawaii because it’s warm like Summer!

Blue sky, clean water, sunshine, and a perfect ride.  Welcome back to the Rikita-san family!

Volcanic hazy sunrises continue…

Good morning 5am.
North shore 15′ and growing.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light South winds.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When I picked up Saito-san early this morning, he was looking at an app called Windy.  That’s the wind forecast app that most surfers use these days.  BUT like always, the South Shore is different.  Windy was calling for South winds but it was actually very calm.  The parking lot was empty, nobody was out, and it was super fun.  Score!

These are the days I like the most.  Observing the ocean changing minute by minute.  Turtles everywhere and nobody around.

Saito-san was very happy to surf because right after this, he had to go to the airport and catch a flight back to Japan.  He must have had a very good sleep.

Surf and smile.  That’s how to enjoy it the most.

Came home and cut up some fresh fish that Seth and the boys caught.  I’m so grateful for those kids thinking about me.  Each bite I enjoy and each bite makes me happy.  Thanks boys!