We paddled out really early this morning.  All you could see was the moon, orange sky, and thankfully not the jellyfish!   Tanaka-san smiling on the way out.

Tanaka-san surfed Bowls 5 years ago and couldn’t catch a wave.  So today my goal was to help him make up for that.  By the end of our session, he caught over 15 waves!  Score!

As you can see, the waves were really fun.  And as you can see, Tanaka-san was catching some good waves!  

Nice turn!  Days like today are special.  Still some chest high sets and perfect conditions.  Only a few of the locals out enjoying local time!  More swells with perfect winds on the way so be ready for everything and anything!

I’ve been surfing Backdoor/Pipeline/Off The Wall since 1988.  Had  hundreds of sessions with thousands waves.  Lots of barrels, lots of wipeouts, and lots of broken boards.  After surfing it on a few big days this year, I realized how dangerous it actually is.  Surfers out there get hurt everyday, surfers out there break boards everyday, and surfers out there die once in a while.  Last week, I had 2 of the biggest wipeouts in my life.  I couldn’t navigate the steep drop, fell on the bottom of the wave, and got smashed to the reef.  It was an awakening because while I’m pinned to the reef, I think about what am I doing here.  I’m surfing with guys like John John Florence, Barron Mamiya, Joshua Moniz, Zeke Lau, and many of the top surfers in the world.  All those guys weren’t even born back in 1988.  So what did I learn?  I learned that I’m actually an Uncle because I was the oldest guy by far.  I learned that getting barreled there is the greatest feeling in the world.  And I learned that even though my mind says “GO!” my body is probably saying “NO!”  Haha.

Smooth perfect days continue…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!