I woke up at 3am and knew there would be waves somewhere.  I checked Diamond Head in the dark, looked at the conditions and swell direction, and decided to head to the East side.

Got there right in time for the golden sunrise.  Orange sun this morning because of the volcano erupting.  It was so beautiful!

Nobody was out and the sets just started pumping.  OMG, head high perfect waves with nobody out!!!  Another dream session!

It was just us taking turns wave after wave.  We surfed super long because none of us wanted to go in.  It was that good.

Clean water, warm, and just a beautiful morning.

I jumped back on my shortboard and was having so much fun.  I felt alive!

I was super tired and heading home.  Then I noticed the winds were still good so it was straight back out for Round 2.  This time on Mayuki.

OMG, long rights and only 1 other guy at the peak.  Today was my best surf day in a while.  Surfing perfect waves with practically nobody around.  I love winter in Hawaii!

I was driving through the Takoro Gorge in Taiwan and there were fallen rocks everywhere.  Some massive landslides they’re still trying to clean up, and more rocks that seemed to just have fallen.  Honestly, I was pretty scared because I know if a rocks this big hits my car, I’m dead.  About 30 minutes into the drive, it was getting worst and worst so I turned around.  Then I had to drive 30 minutes on the same road back out.  I think that was the most terrifying part.  It took me 30 minutes to realize I wasn’t supposed to be in there?  It was always a place I wanted to visit, but never again.  After that, I checked to see if the park is open and here’s what it said:

The eastern side of the park, the Taroko Gorge section, is still closed due to earthquake severe damage and the high risk of falling rocks.  Please do not enter.

I was in Cambodia and ran out of clean t-shirts.  I went to the market and bought this one.  It was my favorite t-shirt for a while and I ended up giving it away.  Something I regret.

Same same, but different…

Winter surf on the South shore.  Go Nakagami-san!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore huge again at 15-18′.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and hazy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!