Passing by:  See the fins?

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Today’s photo of the day:  Outside Waikiki surfing all to ourselves.  Score!

So as I was taking the drop, my fins slid sidewards and I couldn’t regain control.  I tried until the last second which was about right about now.  Now looking back, I wish I had bent my knees more because if I made it, that would have been the best recovery of my life.  

This is where I looked for a safe spot to land.  It’s crazy how fast things are happening but my mind is so calm that I have lots of time to think.  I was thinking that I’d better fall before the wave crashes on my head.  So you can see I start to angle my left shoulder down so I can penetrate the surface and not get sucked over the wave backwards.  

Left arm first, then shoulder will follow.  I’m looking exactly where I want to crash.  That wipeout looked and felt super crazy but it was actually pretty safe.  But we all know that a safe landing is only part of the outcome.  Mother Nature takes control of the rest…