A beautiful morning at Ala Moana. Scotty on the right and Jerome on the left. Good surfing boys!

Hawaii is Turtle Island…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 12′ now coming up fast to 20′ today.
Eddie Aikau should be ON!
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I got a notification on my phone from Santa Claus last night.  He said “come now to the airport as my reindeers just dropped off your Christmas presents!”  I was already in bed half asleep but when I saw that message, I jumped in my car in my pajamas and headed to meet Santa.  

OMG, I must have been a good boy this year because I opened the box and saw 4 freshly custom made surfboards.  OMG!  

I’m going to wax these up and now I’m ready for everything.  Can’t wait to ride these beautiful surfboards.  Thank you Santa!  

Drove by Diamond Head this afternoon and it looked super fun!  Long rides for everyone.  Merry Christmas!

Eddie Aikau update:  The waves are supposed to get huge tomorrow.  Maybe even too big for the contest?  It will grow fast and possibly be the biggest swell in decades.  I just checked the buoy and as of 6pm, the swell isn’t showing yet.  But it’s out there and hopefully it arrives in time for the Eddie Contest tomorrow morning.  They are expecting 50,000 people at Waimea Bay.  Crazy!!!