The golden hour…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore chest high.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Strong trade winds up to 30mph.
Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful day in paradise.  This morning we all went out to test out some new Dove Wetsuits.  Keeping warm, keeping protected, and keeping happy!

As you can see, the waves were beautiful again.  Nice weather and crystal clear water.  Deco-san with the wave of the day.

Tokura-san is the reason I’m where I am today.  He believed in me at a time when I didn’t even believe in myself.  He encouraged me to become a pro surfer, he sent me around the world, and he taught me how to be Japanese.  I am very grateful for this life he has shown me.  And still is…

This is one of the new 1mm designs by Dove.  Feels good and looks great!

My sister walked in my Mom’s house with tree branches the other day.  I was wondering what it was.  Then when I went back yesterday, I realized it was cherry blossoms!!!

OMG, I still don’t know the real reason why cherry blossoms make me feel so happy.  I get so happy seeing it!

Now I know where to buy these cherry blossom branches from.  I’m going to get one for my house ASAP!

Like I said in my last post, this is where things started to go wrong.  I had the perfect angle to what could possible be the best Backdoor barrel of my life.  Look at all that disturbance from the 4 guys that were in my way!  

Right here is when I felt something weird right beneath my fins.  The bodyboarder that duck dove right under me created a slight turbulence that caused air to disrupt the fins that were keeping me in line.  I felt an air pocket that made the tail of my surfboard slightly lift.  Then instead of going on the right path, my board started to slide sidewards.

Right here I tried to regain control.  I kept calm and hoped for the best.  This is when time stands still because there are only 2 outcomes.  One is to have the best barrel of your life.  The other being to have the worst wipeout of your life.  One will give you glory, the other will make you humble.  A cut on my leg, a bruised rib, and a very humbling experience followed…