From knee high town to double overhead North shore.  This board is magic.  

The smaller the better.  And the bigger the better.  Anything is better with this board.  Left foot is the steering wheel.

Right foot is pushing the gas pedal.

Remember:  Front foot is for steering only.  Back foot is for acceleration.  Make sure both feet are on the right spot of the surfboard.  Then life is good!

More than a feeling…

Good morning 4:50am.
North shore 6-8′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

My brother gave me a deep water fish that lives 1000 feet underwater.  This is probably the most expensive fish in Hawaii.  You will only find them at fine dining restaurants and it will cost you a fortune just for a small piece.  This is only the 2nd time in my life someone gave one to me.  I steamed it smiled after each bite.  This fish is called an “Onaga.”  Now I wish I could free dive a thousand feet because I want to eat another one…