Pacific side fish market in Taiwan.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and coming up this afternoon.
Ala Moana chest high and onshore.
Diamond Head shoulder high and onshore.
South winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Have a wonderful day!

How did Joshua Moniz win the prestigious WSL Haleiwa Pro?  Well, he recorded five 9 point rides throughout his heats.  He was surfing so good since his first heat.  When Joshua surfs good, he’s very hard to beat because his power and precision surfing is flawless.  This was his first win since the 2018 Volcom Pipeline Pro and I’m hoping he gets into the Pipeline Masters that starts this weekend.  Let him in!

Josh is one of the sweetest and kindest kids you will ever meet.  Good surfer, good diver, good cook, and overall a good human being.   This victory is well deserved.

This past swell was one of the best in a while.  The waves were so good and the crowds were thin.  I saw a lot of empty barrels paddling out.

I get excited just looking into a barrel like this.

This is why Bowls is the best left hander in town.

OMG, did you hear about the model that got washed off the rocks in Thailand?  She was sitting on the rocks, a freak set came, and she was gone.  I saw the video of her trying to survive in the water as nobody jumped in to help her.  Seeing that made me really sad.  If that was Hawaii, someone would have guaranteed jumped in to save her.  And it happened just a few days before her wedding.  Please be safe everyone.  The ocean can take a life in seconds so respect it and don’t take any chances.  It’s just not worth it.

Great waves again today.  Still shoulder to head high sets and good.  Keoni is one of the best longboarders out there.  The conditions were not as perfect as yesterday but if you caught the right one, it was easier to surf.

Did you feel the earthquake yesterday?  I was sitting on my sofa and my house shook for a second.  Turned out to be a 3.5M one which will scare most people in Hawaii.  

I came across this old drama on Netflix.  It’s called “Beachboy’s” and it’s from the late 1990’s.  The same time I was in Japan hanging down at the beach every summer so it brought back so many good memories.  Being young, naive, foolish, and clueless during the 1990’s was the best.  No cell phones, no cameras to capture your mistakes, no social media to cancel you, and nobody cared.  Everybody just had fun.  Those summers were some of the best times of my life.  

I watched almost every drama during the 1990’s and these guys seemed to get all the cute girls.  Haha.  

I still think this actress is one of the cutest ever.  She was always on TV, and she was on those big poster advertisements.  I don’t remember her name but I surely remember her face.  Anyway, I’m going to finish up this series because watching the beach scene and the beach culture makes me so happy.  It made me realize again why I fell in love with Japan…