Welcome back Rikita-san!  I was so happy to see you surf your best today.  Lots of waves and keeping calm.

It was a picture perfect day this afternoon.  Warmer than summer and the cleanest water.  Endless rides…

We had the biggest and best waves you could ever ask for back in 2018.  Our South Sumatra surf trip was filled with a historic swell that surfers dream of.  I still remember this day very clearly because I was actually a little nervous paddling out.  The whole entire ocean was moving, the waves were over 10′, and there were only 3 other guys out.  As I got closer to the lineup, I realized that these are the kind of days if you make one small mistake, you will die.  This surf spot was so shallow, so remote, and so powerful.  

All the kids from the little village came out to watch this historic day.  Someday they will be surfers?  Why not when you have one of Indonesia’s best waves right in front of your doorstep?  

And yes, there were perfect barreling lefts too.  There were waves everywhere!  It was still a secret surf destination back in 2018 so it was empty.  Now the world found out and I heard it’s really crowded these days.  

The Sumatran surfers breakfast.

My favorite part of every trip is to watch the kids playing.  Everyone is so happy to see foreigners.

Happy Princess Leia!

Good morning 5:10am.
North shore 6-10′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light South/East winds.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Princess Leia is only 5 years old and today was her very first surf experience.  She was so brave and popped up on her first ride.  It was funny because I don’t think she knew what to feel.  Imagine getting up on a surfboard and gliding over the ocean?  Yes, this is the best Disneyland in the world!

The smile after a ride says it all.  I was about this age when I caught my very first wave and I still remember it very well.  Good job Princess Leia!

Mama Toshimi-san hasn’t surfed for a while but after a few waves, all the muscle memory came back.  This is a very nice ride!

The waves were super fun and only had 2 other surfers out.  We all know that if this were Japan, there would be a hundred surfers for sure.  It’s hard to believe we are in the middle of Winter in Hawaii because it’s warm like Summer!

Blue sky, clean water, sunshine, and a perfect ride.  Welcome back to the Rikita-san family!