This morning we gambled and went to a secret spot.  Yesterday afternoon was kind of bumpy so I thought this morning would still be a little bumpy.  BUT, I was wrong again.  It was as clean as it will ever get.  

Nakahodo-san and I caught so many good waves.  And there were so many good waves unridden.  Lefts and rights peeling perfectly.  

Thankfully the gamble payed off.  After 2 hours of shortboard surfing, we paddled in as very happy surfers.  Today was the best I’ve surfed here in many years.  You could do 4 solid turns on every wave both left and right!  

Then we drove past Diamond Head and there must have been a hundred surfers out there.  OMG, panic!  

This doesn’t look too temping for me.  Starting tomorrow, the winds, swell direction, and weather will be unpredictable.  Going to search again for the perfect wave!

Early morning Round 1:  Chest high and perfect!  Secret spot going off and nobody out.  Lucky Nakahodo-san!

Yesterday once more:  Nojima-san riding the perfect right!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 3-5′ this morning becoming 15′ by this afternoon. Coming up really fast so be careful.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny with haze.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!