Yesterday Bowls was super fun on my 5’10 shortboard. Thank you Alan for the water shot. 
From fun chest high waves yesterday to double overhead heavy waves today. I surfed with Roy Kanazawa this morning. The waves were big and beautiful at Waimea Bay. We had the spot to ourselves this morning. SO LUCKY! 
It was Roy’s first time surfing Waimea Bay so I wanted to see if he could find the take off zone. From the very first wave, he figured it out. Very impressive because Waimea is very hard to surf, especially on a light and thin 7’2. 
Really good style and really good rail to rail surfing. 
I waited in the inside and told him to paddle out to the peak. I thought it would be a good experience for him to be at such a magical and powerful surf spot all by himself. This is where wave knowledge is important and for a 22 year old, it’s very very good! 
Roy is a top Japanese pro surfer and has dreams to be the best. He’ll get there fast with this kind of surfing.
I gave Roy top priority on every wave he wanted. I just took the leftovers like this, which was still pretty good. You really can’t see how big the sets were because of the waves in front that are blocking it. But OMG, the sets were big! I rode a 7’4 and it felt way too small. 
We had a great time this morning. After surfing Backdoor the other days with a hundred surfers out, this felt good. It felt so connected to be at such a place that has so much history and culture.
